Basil
Basil is a sun-loving annual. August is its prime month.
It makes a great kitchen windowsill plant, and will deter flies.
Preserve basil by freezing or packing into jars with olive oil.
There are many types of basil, and different sizes and colors
of the leaves. One sure way to identify basil is by the smell.
It is highly aromatic and smells something like spicy cloves.
The plant can grow to a height of 2 feet.
Plants should not be set outdoors until all danger of frost
has past. Once plants are established, pinch out the top to
encourage a bushier plant. Frequent harvesting of the outer
leaves will prolong the life of the plant. Wash leaves well
before using.
In cooking, basil works well in combination with tomatoes. Italian
and Greek cuisines incorporate it often. Pesto is a famous basil-garlic
sauce, great with pasta. Finely chopped basil stirred into mayonnaise
makes a good sauce for fish.
Purple Basil:
Q. I would like to know why my purple basil is dying. The leaves
are wilted looking. Help.
A. This is a hard call, but I would say overwatering is the
culprit. Basil is used to the Mediterranean climate and likes
to get dry between waterings, but not to the point of wilting.
Make sure that the soil medium you have it in is very loose
and well-drained. If it is chunky and heavy, the roots will
smother and die, leading to root rot, wilting, and then sadly
death.
Take it out of its pot, allow to dry, and shake loose the current
mix. Add a better mix and repot. Give it full sun, since if
shaded, it will not perform and this could cause overwatering,
too, and death. It is great in cooking and as a garnish. Opal
basil is a lovely variety. Best of luck.
Q. My sister has a basil cutting. How can she propagate it?
What temp, soil, etc., does the plant need? Thanks.
A. Basil is best propagated by seed rather than trying to get
a cutting to root. All she has to do is allow the plant to flower,
which it does readily, and soon there will be clusters of black
seeds produced. Harvest them, dry for a week and sow right on
top of a tray full of vermiculite, covered just a wee bit. They
germinate within a week.
She can take some end cuttings of the youngest, freshest sprouts,
a length of 4-5" and place the bottom inch in a glass of
water, having no leaves below the water. Place in a well-lit
window and wait for tiny white roots to form. They can be potted
several to a 4" pot and grow indoors or outside until frost.
Basil is surprisingly easy to grow. It is easily grown from
seed regardless of whether it is started indoors or broadcast
outside in the garden after the danger of frost has passed.
Basil is very tender and sensitive to frost injury. For indoor
culture, sow seeds in a flat, and cover them with a moistened,
sterile mix to a depth not more than twice the size of the seed.
Space seeds 3/8 to 1/2 inch apart in the flat. Maintain a soil
temperature of approximately 70 degrees F. Once germination
begins, at 5 to 7 days, the plantlets must be kept warm at 70
degrees F or above and the soil must be kept moist.
When seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves, transplant
them to 2 inch pots. Basil grows best in a sunny location and
need a well-drained, rich soil. Plants started indoors and hardened
off in May can be planted outside to their permanent location
and spaced about 12 inches apart. Since moisture is important
to a good basil crop, mulching the area will not only discourage
weeds but will maintain the moisture level of the soil keeping
the plant healthy.
Basil prefers a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Fertilize basil sparingly
as this decreases the fragrant oils. To encourage a bushy, healthy
plant and to maximize production, don't be afraid to prune
basil. Unless you want to harvest some seed, pinch off the flower
buds as soon as they begin to emerge. Letting them flower too
much will lead to death of the plant! Basil will usually have
to be pruned every 2 to 3 weeks.
Info Ohio State University, list of varieties:
http://www.ag.ohio-state.edu/~ohioline/hyg-fact/1000/1644.html
Q. A woman has a little herb garden outside her patio door.
She has three basil plants, each a different variety. Her plants
are HUGE. Like, 3 - 4 feet high and very bushy. Well, my two
or three plants are still just one-stalkers, and only about
as tall as they were when I bought them. I hardly use them,
because I don't want to strip them of all their few leaves.
Why does she have success and I don't?
A. Pinching, light, heat, water and food. These words come to
mind, so examine all of them.
Basil is Mediterranean at heart, as is rosemary and some thyme.
It loves hot and basically very, very bright growing areas.
Think Italy and Greece. Place the plants in as well-lit an area
as possible. they can take some hours of shade, but heat them
up good. Of course, this is coupled with plentiful water. With
all the transpiration of liquid from the leaves in the heat,
the soil needs water almost daily.
Pinching is very important. the ones which do the best are constantly
being harvested the worst thing you can do to all herbs is just
let them grow and never cut them. Branching occurs each time
you trim a stem with leaves, and it also removes any flower
buds, which you do not want until late fall.
Basil likes fertilizer, too, but not too much. Otherwise the
flavor will be altered if fed too much. Feed them every 3-4
weeks, with a general garden food, plentiful in nitrogen.
Even if you do not wish to use any basil, cut off the top vegetative
stems an inch to promote branching. Then, you will be rewarded
with a bushy, happy, vigorous plant.
Q. I have two basil plants growing in large pots on the deck.
They probably have different soil mixes. One gets slightly more
sun than the other, but both get plenty. The one in the bit
more sun has suddenly dried up and set seed, and is just about
devoid of leaves. The other (which has always been darker green)
is still full of leaves and healthy looking, and dark green.
What do you think is happening?
A. The one basil has set seeds and its life is nearing an end.
Basil is an annual and will seed itself for next year, thus
appearing to be perennial, as a rosemary in moderate climes.
But, once seed has been set, that sends a chemical message to
the plant to stop growing, producing green leaves [for your
cooking!] and put all its energy into what it was put on Earth
to do, propagate itself on through a new generation.
The only way to avoid this happening is to make sure that you
pinch off all new shoots throughout the season, even cutting
back 2-6" depending upon the length of the stem. But, if
you miss a couple stems and they flower and set seed, the rest
will automatically stop growing and set seed, too. It is not
as though you could have 1/2 a plant seeding and the other 1/2
bearing fresh green leaves for harvest.
The more sun basil gets the better...think Italy. But, watering
must be watched daily, since if they wilt, they tend to drop
a lot of leaves due to the stress. White fly is the most common
insect which invades it, on the undersides of the foliage.
Irene writes~
I have quite a few beautiful basil plants but this year they
are being attacked by bugs. The leaves have holes in them and
are eaten all raggedy. What should I do?
A. There are several insects and diseases that may infest the
plant, but there are no pesticides currently available for use
on basil. Since the herb is grown for consumption, it is unwise
to use any chemical on it. Plants should therefore be monitored
continually for the presence of insects and diseases. Your County
Extension office should be contacted for information on the
identification of insects and diseases and for recommended controls.
Serious leaf damage is most likely the handiwork of Japanese
Beetles. Hand pick and drown any beetles you find in a bucket
of soapy water. More serious beetle problems can be controlled
organically with a bio-lure (used with a commercial trap, or
in a yellow bucket of soapy water which is changed regularly).
Keep away from sitting water or hidden, cool spots where slugs
and snails may live [under saucers or rocks] as these predators
can do severe damage to basil foliage.
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