Camellias

Q. I have a camellia tree/bush that is blooming now. It is healthy, but needs trimming. When is the proper time to trim, and what is the proper method? Also, can I root the trimmings? If so, what method should I use - in water, or directly into soil?

Camellias are similar to rhododendrons; they produce a mass of blooms and do not require major pruning. If you want to train a hedge, plant 3' apart and regularly trim back the new growth each year in spring to encourage bushiness.

Like rhododendrons and azaleas, remove spent blooms to promote further flowering and prevent energy going into seed production. For larger flowering varieties, remove all the flower buds except the outward-facing buds, to encourage larger blooms. Remember that flower buds are more swollen than leaf buds.

For reasonably dense foliage, remove some of the longer stems to open up the plant and let in more light and air. This will encourage growth from lower down, improving both health and flowering. If left, plants tend to flower only at the top of the plant. Pruning of camellias should be done after blooming and before new growth begins.

Pruning camellias has not always been a common practice among growers. In the past, plants had been allowed to grow freely. Pruning camellias can benefit both the plant and the flowers it produces. Also, it can be done for the purposes of controlling insects and diseases. This pruning involves removing small branches and twigs that occur on limbs in the interior of the plant. The leaves of the small branches are a haven for scale and other pests. Thinning out allows for more efficient spray coverage. In addition, air circulation is greatly improved, which also helps prevent pests.

The best blooms are usually produced on vigorous plants. As plants get large, there are more growing points and a larger number of flower buds are set per plant. The amount of shoot growth is reduced and the individual flowers tend to be smaller.

Pruning may be continued throughout the year in moderation, however, all pruning done after June will be removing flower buds for the upcoming season. A pocket knife, pruning shears, and a small pruning saw [all sharp and in good condition] are needed tools. Good sanitation is important so wash tools in a mixture of 1 part Clorox to 9 parts water. Do not lay the tools on the ground since this can spread harmful organisms to the cut surface of the plant. Give the plant a protective spray of a fungicide following pruning to prevent die-back fungus from entering the wounds.

To prune properly, make the cut next to the trunk, not leaving stumps. Remove weak twigs having only one terminal bud and no lateral shoot buds. Vigorous shoots will have 1-3 well-developed terminal leaf buds and lateral side ones. Cut out branches that tend to grow inward, for they will be shaded in later years. Remove all dead and dying twigs.

When transplanting camellias, 1/3 to 1/2 of the bush should be removed. The actual amount removed should be in proportion to the amount of root loss during transplanting. This will restore balance to the plant since some roots are lost by being cut off or injured in transplanting.

Healthy, vigorous stems can be propagated in sand, placed in a tray and covered for protection. Use the softer, new growth for speediest root growth. Stick the stem ends about 2-3" deep to anchor the branch. Apply Rootone to the cut end and monitor the moisture of the sand. When well-rooted, transplant into your garden but keep covered for several weeks to acclimate the stems to your conditions.

Assistance from:
http://www.camellias-acs.com/culture/pruning.html www.wellingtongardens.co.nz/Pruning/Camellia.htm

Muriel writes~ What is causing my Camellia to have the buds get brown and fall off? It is pretty warm and dry here in central AZ, is that the cause? They sell them at the nursery here so one would think they would live, and mine is alive, its in a pot on the porch under a roof, so no direct sun except when I move it out in the morning for a few hours. I keep it watered and have only had it since fall, so perhaps it need fertilizer; if so what kind and how much? Any help for me? I wanted it for a 'front door' plant, but its not working out....of course I don't think the javelina are helping either, but they haven't uprooted it yet.

A. There are many reasons apparently healthy Camellias may drop flower buds. When a large number of buds have formed on the bush, the small immature buds drop, especially with the double-flowered types. Very low winter temperatures may be a cause, especially with tender cultivars. Some Camellias bloom so late in certain areas that the new vegetative growth causes some buds to abort. Where full normal-looking buds drop, it may be due to excessive nitrogen fertilizer applications too late in the season. Lack of water during the period of flower bud initiation and early development may be enough to cause growth stoppage. Deprived of water, the flower stalks may fail to develop fully. This malformation creates weakness which may result in splits after frosts in early fall or when flower buds swell in the spring. Container-grown Camellias are especially vulnerable to bud drop, as are plants growing against walls or close to trees. If weather is dry in late summer/early fall, water thoroughly for deep water penetration. Plentiful watering once a week rather than smaller quantities more frequently is desired and a thick mulch will help to conserve essential soil moisture.

Assistance from: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/camellias/camellia_bud_drop.asp