Camellias
Q. I have a camellia tree/bush that is blooming now. It is
healthy, but needs trimming. When is the proper time to trim,
and what is the proper method? Also, can I root the trimmings?
If so, what method should I use - in water, or directly into
soil?
Camellias are similar to rhododendrons; they produce a mass
of blooms and do not require major pruning. If you want to train
a hedge, plant 3' apart and regularly trim back the new
growth each year in spring to encourage bushiness.
Like rhododendrons and azaleas, remove spent blooms to promote
further flowering and prevent energy going into seed production.
For larger flowering varieties, remove all the flower buds except
the outward-facing buds, to encourage larger blooms. Remember
that flower buds are more swollen than leaf buds.
For reasonably dense foliage, remove some of the longer stems
to open up the plant and let in more light and air. This will
encourage growth from lower down, improving both health and
flowering. If left, plants tend to flower only at the top of
the plant. Pruning of camellias should be done after blooming
and before new growth begins.
Pruning camellias has not always been a common practice among
growers. In the past, plants had been allowed to grow freely.
Pruning camellias can benefit both the plant and the flowers
it produces. Also, it can be done for the purposes of controlling
insects and diseases. This pruning involves removing small branches
and twigs that occur on limbs in the interior of the plant.
The leaves of the small branches are a haven for scale and other
pests. Thinning out allows for more efficient spray coverage.
In addition, air circulation is greatly improved, which also
helps prevent pests.
The best blooms are usually produced on vigorous plants. As
plants get large, there are more growing points and a larger
number of flower buds are set per plant. The amount of shoot
growth is reduced and the individual flowers tend to be smaller.
Pruning may be continued throughout the year in moderation,
however, all pruning done after June will be removing flower
buds for the upcoming season. A pocket knife, pruning shears,
and a small pruning saw [all sharp and in good condition] are
needed tools. Good sanitation is important so wash tools in
a mixture of 1 part Clorox to 9 parts water. Do not lay the
tools on the ground since this can spread harmful organisms
to the cut surface of the plant. Give the plant a protective
spray of a fungicide following pruning to prevent die-back fungus
from entering the wounds.
To prune properly, make the cut next to the trunk, not leaving
stumps. Remove weak twigs having only one terminal bud and no
lateral shoot buds. Vigorous shoots will have 1-3 well-developed
terminal leaf buds and lateral side ones. Cut out branches that
tend to grow inward, for they will be shaded in later years.
Remove all dead and dying twigs.
When transplanting camellias, 1/3 to 1/2 of the bush should
be removed. The actual amount removed should be in proportion
to the amount of root loss during transplanting. This will restore
balance to the plant since some roots are lost by being cut
off or injured in transplanting.
Healthy, vigorous stems can be propagated in sand, placed in
a tray and covered for protection. Use the softer, new growth
for speediest root growth. Stick the stem ends about 2-3"
deep to anchor the branch. Apply Rootone to the cut end and
monitor the moisture of the sand. When well-rooted, transplant
into your garden but keep covered for several weeks to acclimate
the stems to your conditions.
Assistance from:
http://www.camellias-acs.com/culture/pruning.html
www.wellingtongardens.co.nz/Pruning/Camellia.htm
Muriel writes~ What is causing my Camellia to have the buds
get brown and fall off? It is pretty warm and dry here in central
AZ, is that the cause? They sell them at the nursery here so
one would think they would live, and mine is alive, its in a
pot on the porch under a roof, so no direct sun except when
I move it out in the morning for a few hours. I keep it watered
and have only had it since fall, so perhaps it need fertilizer;
if so what kind and how much? Any help for me? I wanted it for
a 'front door' plant, but its not working out....of
course I don't think the javelina are helping either, but
they haven't uprooted it yet.
A. There are many reasons apparently healthy Camellias may drop
flower buds. When a large number of buds have formed on the
bush, the small immature buds drop, especially with the double-flowered
types. Very low winter temperatures may be a cause, especially
with tender cultivars. Some Camellias bloom so late in certain
areas that the new vegetative growth causes some buds to abort.
Where full normal-looking buds drop, it may be due to excessive
nitrogen fertilizer applications too late in the season. Lack
of water during the period of flower bud initiation and early
development may be enough to cause growth stoppage. Deprived
of water, the flower stalks may fail to develop fully. This
malformation creates weakness which may result in splits after
frosts in early fall or when flower buds swell in the spring.
Container-grown Camellias are especially vulnerable to bud drop,
as are plants growing against walls or close to trees. If weather
is dry in late summer/early fall, water thoroughly for deep
water penetration. Plentiful watering once a week rather than
smaller quantities more frequently is desired and a thick mulch
will help to conserve essential soil moisture.
Assistance from:
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/camellias/camellia_bud_drop.asp
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