Gardening with Gary
Gardening Advice from an Expert
Chrysanthemums
Q. I have a pot of mums from last year. Will they come up again this year? If
they will, do I need to cut the dead leaves and stems? If I do, what do I cut them
with? I'm new to gardening.
A. Mums are generally hardy enough to go through winter and grow and bloom the
next year, though I do not know your climate zone. A particularly harsh winter might
kill it. You will find out soon enough if there are any green sprouts popping out
with the warm spring temps.
Cut back all old stems and leaves down to the soil, if they are indeed totally
brown. Your neighbors have not got around to their spring cleaning, so you go show
them! There is no advantage in keeping the old dead wood on mums or any other plant
once it has come through the winter and ready to put forth the spring growth.
One should always be aware that dead tissue is a great harbor for disease and
insects, especially where they love to lay their eggs. You can avoid many problems
in your gardens by keeping them clean, well-pruned and healthy.
Give the mums a good helping of fertilizer once you see new growth. A basic gardening
fertilizer is fine for mums and almost all your other perennials. Maintain this
program coupled with good watering throughout the entire season, especially when
the heat is harsh on the plants and you are not experiencing rainfall. Help out
Mother Nature, and your plants will be all the more happy.
Q. I have just planted 2 flats of fall mums. They are in bloom now. The mum lady
at the store said not to cut them back now for fall blooming, but rather wait and
cut them back this fall. Will they get leggy, only flower now, or should I ignore
her and prune them now?
A. She is correct, but it is a combination of her response and yours! You should
let them bloom now, and of course plant them into your well-worked garden beds.
Add a bit of mulch around them and make sure their location will have at least half
day sun, full being even better. Enjoy the flowers.
Then as the flowers fade, you will cut the heads off and discard. Use clean,
sharp shears. This will force vegetative side shoots so that you will not have leggy
stems throughout the summer. I would not pinch back anything except an errant branch
which seems out of kilter with the rest of the plant. All pinching will eliminate
any chance of flowering this fall.
Since they were forced to bloom now, by tricking them with short days in a greenhouse,
you probably will not get much in the way of flowers this fall. It could be sporadic
at best. But, you must keep them green and growing all season with ample water and
fertilizer to build up the root system and get them established in their new home.
S. kisko writes~ I have 14 mum plants in my garden. How do we care for them to
keep them coming back each year? They are dying now. Can we cut the flowers now?
They are very heavy and beginning to split.
A. You should cut off all old flowers which are brown and faded. After all the
blooming is over for the fall, cut the entire plants back to about 6". Mulch them
with bark or dried leaves and ready them for the dormancy of winter.
A flowering mum should remain full of color approximately 4 to 6 weeks. When
flowering has ceased, remove dead blooms. Allow the foliage to remain until it is
time to prepare them for winter. Around Thanksgiving, it is time to provide some
winter protection for your mum. Cover the mum completely with sphagnum peat moss
and water thoroughly. Many people use leaves, straw or soil as a mulch.
In the spring, after the danger of frost is past, remove the peat moss mulch.
Remove any dead stems at this time. If the plant survived the winter, short green
shoots of new growth should be seen by May 1. A conscientious effort to provide
this care will result in a lifetime enjoyment of mums.
Mums require pinching to insure a compact, full plant. In the Midwest, garden
mums will naturally set buds anytime after mid-May for flowering about 4 to 6 weeks
later. So pinch no later than July 4 for blooms in August. In the spring allow the
mum to grow to 6" tall then prune to 3". Continue pruning 2 to 3 inches off of each
new 6" growth until July 4.
Mums need fertilizer for strong foliage growth and good root development. Fertilizer
will also promote blossoms and keep them lasting longer. We suggest you fertilize
throughout the spring, summer and fall. Use a water soluble fertilizer, as Miracle-Gro,
every other time you water, or use a granular garden type fertilizer as a top dressing
around the mum at least once a month. This is an important step in developing a
strong healthy plant. Fertilizing would not have to be done to established plant,
but if done it will produce a much nicer plant.
With assistance from: www.bennettsgreenhouse.com
Q. I need to know if there is anything I need to do for my mums before winter.
I just got them this fall. I have "garden mums" and "chrysanthemum". I live in the
center of Ohio.
A. Garden mums are not difficult plants to grow. You can buy and plant them almost
anytime. They start out as small, rooted cuttings in the spring. Plant these after
the last frost in full sun. For outdoor hardiness, spring-planted mums have a better
chance to get their root systems established well enough by fall to survive the
winter. The plants will thrive in a wide variety of soils, but do need good drainage.
Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the planting hole. You can also feed
them in early fall with a 5-10-10 fertilizer. If the weather is dry, make sure they
get adequate water, about an inch per week.
Aside from getting them started, mums' only special demand is some attention
to pruning at the correct time. They are stimulated to bloom by the declining day
length of summer and early fall, and to some extent by a late-summer pattern of
warm days and cooler nights. Pinching out the growing tips (even if they already
have tiny buds) until about July 15 will make the plants bushier and keep them from
trying to set blooms too early. Or pinch side shoots on a stem leaving one terminal
bud, for larger flowers.
You can find garden mums in nurseries all summer long and into fall. These will
probably be in pots ranging from 4 to 8 inches in diameter. If you do plant mums
in fall, the plants will have a better chance of making it through winter with a
thick layer of mulch. As the mum blooms fade, deadhead them to avoid having any
stray seedlings come up. But it is best to leave all the foliage in place until
spring. A number of tests have shown that mums survive the winter better if the
dead tops are not pruned until the danger of heavy freezes is past. They will turn
brown, but the plants will retain much of their structure and add winter interest.
Also, many greenhouses offer larger, preplanted containers and hanging baskets.
If you get these larger plants, the pinching will have been done for you, and the
only thing you have to do is provide a good planting site and plenty of water.
If you want more plants from your garden mums, they are easy to divide. In fact,
cuttings and division are the only ways to get the same variety, as hybrid mums
do not come true from seed.
Carefully dig up a clump of mums in spring, then gently separate it into smaller
sections. You can get a lot of plants from a clump because all you need for a new
start is a small sprig with a little bit of root. Replant divisions just as you
would potted starts from the nursery.
In late spring to midsummer, look at garden centers for pots of plants budded
out and some could be getting ready for early bloom. If nothing else, you may be
able to decide which ones to get next spring. And I will bet you will not go home
without picking up at least one container of colorful blossoms to brighten up the
fall.
Credit to: Timothy Skeers From
Garden Gate Issue 35, October 2000
Q. I was wondering what the proper times during spring and summer, to "cut back"
my mums would be to ensure fall blooms. I was also wondering what time of the spring
I should cut back the dead growth from the previous fall. Any pruning and feeding
information would be helpful.
A. Mums require pinching to ensure a nice, compact plant. Garden mums will naturally
set buds anytime after Mid-May for flowering about 4-6 weeks later. So, pinch no
later than July 4th for blooms in August. In the spring, allow the mum to grow to
6" tall, then prune to 3". Continue pruning 2-3" off each new growth until July
4th.
Do not forget to feed the plants all through the spring and early summer, with
a general gardening fertilizer, like Miracle-Gro, according to label directions.
This will ensure both good foliage growth and increased amount and size of flowers.
It will also make the plants more resistant to insects and diseases.
Norma writes~ So far I have had no luck with mums. They do not come up the next
year. What is the secret to having mums every year without planting them year after
year?
A. I will give you some guidelines and hope that one or more will help you. Except
for deep freezes where you have not protected them sufficiently or insect damage,
there is no reason that they should not come up for at least 4-5 years, and maybe
die out after that. Probably one of the most confusing aspects to growing mums is
the unexpected sudden death or loss of plants during the winter. There are several
strategies that can aid in overwinter survival of garden mums.
First, be sure a hardy variety is selected, preferably one that flowers early
and allows sufficient time to acclimate to cold temperatures.
Second, make sure mums are planted in a protected location. Mums do not like
sites that are exposed to brutal winter winds. In addition, heavy wet soils in winter
can be another hindrance to overwinter survival.
Third, stop fertilizing the plants by the end of July. Fertilizing late in the
season often encourages new growth that does not have enough time to acclimate in
the fall.
Fourth, leave the old foliage standing.
Lastly, mulch newly planted mums with wood chips, straw or other organic mulches
to prevent the plants from lifting out of the soil during the freeze and thaw cycles
during the winter.
For best results, transplant mums into well-drained soil; winter injury is most
common when mums are planted in poorly drained soils. Potted mums are often grown
in a mix that is very high in organic matter. If these are planted in very heavy
clay soil without first amending it, the difference between the two soil situations
often prevents good root establishment and increases the chance of winter kill.
Before planting, make sure there is an adequate amount of organic matter incorporated
into the area. After leaves have turned brown, cut back the tops and apply a loose
airy mulch several inches thick to allow light to get to the small basal shoots
during the winter. The purpose of this mulch is to provide wind protection and keep
the soil shaded and froze n so that frost heaving is minimized. Protective mulch
may be removed or pulled away from the crown by early to mid-April after danger
of severe cold is past.
Assistance from: Missouri Environment and Garden
Q. I have planted some mums in my flower bed. They are growing well [I live in
northern California, Sacramento]. Please tell me if I need to protect them in winter
and how should I do it. Also, please tell me what other care I should take and how
to protect from insects.
A. You can increase the odds of mums surviving the winter by protecting them
in the fall. Mulches should be applied in late fall after the plants have been exposed
to cold temperatures, typically mid-November. Do not cut chrysanthemums back in
the fall. While cutting mums back in the fall is a common practice, recent research
found that unpruned plants survived the winter better than those pruned in the fall.
Simply place several inches of mulch around the mums in the fall. Suitable mulching
materials include clean, weed-free straw or hay, bark, pine needles and evergreen
branches. Leaves are not a good mulch as they tend to mat down and don't provide
adequate protection.
They should be planted in early spring after all danger of freezing, however
they can be planted almost any time, as long as they have tim e to establish their
root system before the hottest weather. They grow best and produce the most flowers
if planted in full sunshine, and respond to plentiful food and moisture.
Several diseases and insects attack mums. Prevention of many of them can be done
by following these recommendations:
Buy plants that are free of diseases and insects.
Plant in a sunny location.
Allow plenty of air circulation by avoiding over crowding.
Keep your garden free of weeds and disease-infested plants.
Typical problems on mums include verticillium wilt, septoria leaf spot, powdery
mildew, rust, blight, aphids, leafhoppers, plant bugs, leafminers, and spider mites.
Before using a pesticide, diagnose problems carefully and correctly. The regular
use of Chemical Dust that controls most chewing insects, sucking insects, and fungus
diseases, will stop damage before it gets started. In cases of bad infestations
of disease, remove infected leaves to increase ventilation, water from below only,
not allowing the water to get on foliage, and dust with your every two or three
days. Check the availability at your local garden center or nursery.
Crissy writes~
I planted some Mums last year and they did not come back this year. Can you please
give me some general care tips for Mums. Sun and water requirements? Is there a
difference in care if the mums are in containers versus in the ground? And can I
take some Mums I have now that are in containers and plant them in the ground this
time of year?
A. If you moved your plants outdoors for the summer, it is time to bring them
inside. A gradual reintroduction to the indoors is best as sudden changes in temperature,
light and humidity can be traumatic to plants resulting in yellowing leaves, leggy
growth and possibly dieback. Start bringing plants indoors before night temperatures
dip below 45 degrees F (40 to 50 degrees F for tropical) inspecting first for pest
problems. To avoid shock, expose plants to reduced lighting gradually. Don't overwater. Repot if necessary. If you want to try to overwinter your mums outside, once plant tops die back after blooming or severe frost, cut the stems even with the ground.
Apply a thick layer of straw or bark mulch at the end of October, removing it in
the spring as the frost leaves the ground. If we have a mild winter, or you live
in a mild location, chances are better that they will survive. September is a good
month to landscape with fall mums which are available in a rainbow assortment of
colors. Bronze, red, yellow, and white are among the more popular choices. The key
to successful planting is proper site preparation. Choose a sunny well-drained spot.
Dig and loosen the soil to a depth of 8-10" in a hole twice the diameter of the
plant's pot. Mix organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure into the soil.
Mikki writes~
My sister purchased potted mums around Halloween and doesn't want to plant them
because we are going to be moving soon and want to plant them where ever it is we
move to. My question is what is the best way to take care of these mums inside this
winter? We live in St. Louis and the winters get very bitter. Any advice would be
appreciated.
A. If you moved your plants outdoors for the summer, it is time to bring them
inside. A gradual reintroduction to the indoors is best as sudden changes in temperature,
light and humidity can be traumatic to plants resulting in yellowing leaves, leggy
growth and possibly dieback. Start bringing plants indoors before night temperatures
dip below 45 degrees F (40 to 50 degrees F for tropical) inspecting first for pest
problems. To avoid shock, expose plants to reduced lighting gradually. Don't overwater. Repot if necessary. If you want to try to overwinter your mums outside, once plant tops die back after blooming or severe frost, cut the stems even with the ground.
Apply a thick layer of straw or bark mulch at the end of October, removing it in
the spring as the frost leaves the ground. If we have a mild winter, or you live
in a mild location, chances are better that they will survive. September is a good
month to landscape with fall mums which are available in a rainbow assortment of
colors. Bronze, red, yellow, and white are among the more popular choices. The key
to successful planting is proper site preparation. Choose a sunny well-drained spot.
Dig and loosen the soil to a depth of 8-10" in a hole twice the diameter of the
plant's pot. Mix organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure into the soil.
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