Epiphyllum
Member Wendy writes~ I have an Epiphyllum plant that I cannot
get to bloom. I purchased several stalks at the San Diego Zoo
10 years ago. The plant is healthy, grows like a weed. It is
now about 4-5 feet tall. I have tried fertilizing it, have also
tried "Miracle Grow". I'm to the point of throwing
it out. Are these something that have been force-bloomed and
will never bloom again. Should I still hope?
A. Epiphyllum prefer filtered sunlight or a few hours of morning
or afternoon sun. The plants may be grown under lath, shade
cloth (density depends on your climate), a fully leafed tree,
or on a patio or near a window where they receive morning of
afternoon sunlight. Epiphyllum may be raised under fluorescent
grow-lights.
The main thing to remember about watering established Orchid
Cacti is that the mix should never be allowed to dry out completely.
when you water the plants, do it thoroughly so that the water
flows freely from the drain holes. Then allow the top 1/3 of
the mix to dry before watering again. Use your finger to determine
when this has happened. Nothing replaces checking the mix every
few days to see whether it is time to water. Generally speaking,
clay pots will dry out faster than plastic ones. Plastic potted
Epiphyllum require less attention then ones in clay pots. Orchid
cactus go through natural growth cycles in the spring and again
in the fall. Naturally, they demand more water during this time.
The plants usually rest after flowering and again during the
winter months. Even if your plants look a little wilted from
the stress of producing flowers, do not increase the amount
of water that you have been giving them. This is a natural phenomenon
and the plants will usually recover their plump look by fall.
During the winter months, give the plants just enough water
to stay moist.
When placed on a fertilizing schedule, your plants should receive
an application of balanced fertilizer (i.e., 6-6-6, 10-10-10)
at least once a month starting in spring and ending in fall.
There are many good balanced fertilizers on the market that
are excellent providing they are used according to package directions
and are not too high in nitrogen (over 10%). It does not matter
whether the fertilizer you select is liquid or granular. If
you already have fertilizer on hand that has more than 10% nitrogen,
it is all right to use it providing you dilute it accordingly...as
an example, if your fertilizer contains 40% nitrogen, use half
the recommended amount or even less. It is always better to
use too little fertilizer than too much.
In order to promote blooms and harden off tender young growth
in time for winter, use an application of low (or no) nitrogen
fertilizer...0-10-10 or 2-10-10...once at the end of February
and again in early November. Do not fertilize your plants during
December or January.
They will tolerate extreme heat if some effort is made to keep
them well shaded and the humidity level up [to at least 50%]
Cool winter temperatures [50 F] and long nights are necessary
for bud formation to take place.
Epiphyllum prefer at least 50% humidity, but will tolerate less.
They really like free air movement, but do not respond well
to strong cold and hot winds. Do not crowd your plants too closely
together.
From this website, too, and my intense editing!
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/SSaSSSy/Epiphyllum.html
Here is another useful organization:
http://www.epiphyllum.org
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