Gardening with Gary
Gardening Advice from an Expert
Lavender
T. VanEgmond, London, Ontario, Canada writes~
I have some very large and woody lavender plants. The lower portions have lost all
leaves/foliage, and as mentioned are very woody. If I separate or thin out the plant,
will it address the woodenness? If so, how do I do so?
A. To be a vigorous healthy plant, lavender needs to be pruned. This should begin
when the plant is young and continue each year. English Lavender (Lavandula
angustifolia) needs pruning after flowering in summer. Italian Lavender
(Lavandula stoechas), with the ribbon-like flowers, can be cut back by one-third
or even one-half in the fall. For both these varieties, cut the stems below the
flowers and the top leaves. It is essential to cut into green growth, not the old
wood at the base of the stems, allowing some leafy green stem to remain below the
cut.
French Lavender (Lavandula dentata) needs to be controlled, especially
if it is a hedge. Using shears, trim it back in summer, leaving no flower stalks.
To prune in a moderate fashion, just remove the immature growth. If the bush needs
a hard prune, reduce it by half. Do it regularly so that the bush does not become
woody in the center.
Certain varieties benefit from pruning off the old wood in early spring (these
varieties produce new growth at the base of the plant and you will see it) and some
varieties do not. After transplanting lavender, do not expect much flowering until
the roots reestablish. You will see some new growth and maybe a few blooms in later
summer. If you've planted it in a very sunny, well-drained area it will really take
off next year.
The only lavender I really prune hard is the munstead. It gets new growth in
the middle in the early spring, and I prune out all the sprawling old woody stuff
around it. It comes back very full and lovely. With provence and hidcote, I shear
off the old flowering stems lightly and cut off anything that's old and woody with
no foliage.
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