Lawn Care

Q. Is it true that spraying iron on my not so hot lawn will help it look better even with our drought (I live in Ocala, Florida, south central Florida). I thank you for your help and hope that these issues will help others.

A. I would check with your local nurseryman about the iron. I would imagine the form would be chelated. As for dilution rate and whether the heat of Florida may lead to burning, I do not know. Let me know what is suggested!

Q. My husband insists on hiring a gardener to poke holes in our lawn every year, [still it is the worst lawn in our neighborhood even with doing that every year]. I can say that it is a waste of my money. I asked my neighbors and friends why they never poke holes in their lawn, but most of their lawns were green and thick, like a green carpets. Would you please advise me how to care for the lawn without poking those dumb holes in our lawn? From Stockton, California

A. The gardener is poking holes for two reasons. To aerate the soil, allowing air to penetrate down below the mass into the root areas and to apply fertilizer right down to the roots [water is allowed deep this way, too]. I recommend not poking the holes unless your soil is in such poor condition that it is rock hard solid. Has it ever been roto-tilled? Since yours is doing so poorly, you may need to start a new lawn after working the soil and adding organic material. I do not know how large a project this would be for you, but the results will speak for themselves!

You could apply with an applicator Scotts Turf Builder. You can get the Plus variety which will help keep down the weeds, which you did not mention. I think everyone has some kind of weeds, and many times they are greener than the grass! You could try this first and follow the bag's directions. If it does nothing to improve your lawn after several applications, then I fear you will need to take more drastic measures to improve your soil which is the base for the lawn.

Patrick writes~ My lawn looks terrible… with weeds, crabgrass, brown areas, etc., despite years of paying a landscaper $175/month to take care of my yard. I live on half an acre of land in a suburban area in northern New Jersey. The only part of my lawn that looks good is the area that is covered with clover, which to me looks nice and looks very green (even greener by far than the areas that have grass).

A. What are the good points and bad points of just having a whole lawn full of clover? To me, it seems like this might be an easy solution, but I am not sure. Also, if I were to go ahead with a clover lawn, how would I go about doing it? Would I need to buy clover seed to plant? How would I get rid of the crabgrass (and whatever bit of real lawn grass that I still have) in order to make way for the clover?

First of all, you have to get rid of that crab grass. It is early spring in NJ, so you could get started as soon as the soil is workable. rent a roto-tiller and turn all that junk, including dread and dry grass areas, and pick out anything green. Use a rake and go over it weekly. There will be seeds left which you will have no control over, as you cannot add weed killer to the lawn area if you wish to plant clover this spring.

Clover is often planted by gardeners as a soil conditioner. It grows quickly and easily, chokes out weeds and is easily 'turned in' to the beds when planting time draws near. The deep root system reduces soil compacting. Clover is also a nitrogen-fixing plant, which enriches the soil with natural fertilizer.

Clover also works well, however, as a replacement for turf - consider the benefits: Low Maintenance: Clover needs little to no watering. No mowing. No Fertilizers: Chemical fertilizers are not needed to grow clover. Color Clover stays green even in the driest part of summer. Inexpensive It costs about $4 to cover 4000 sq. ft. of turf area. Comfortable Easy to walk through or play on, although not as durable as grass. Commonly available clovers are Dutch White, Yellow Blossom and Red Clover. Of these, Dutch White is best suited for lawn-type use. (Yellow Blossom and Red Clover grow taller, from 18 - 36". They are more suited for pasture application.) Dutch White clover is a perennial, but acts as a reseeding annual in the Lower South. It is an excellent reseeder because it flowers from March through early May. White clover germinates in 7 - 10 days, and reaches a maximum height of 8 - 10". It does need moisture at time of germination, but is drought tolerant once established.

Buy seeds of the variety desired, or search locally for flats of clover for sale later in the spring. You should not have any trouble; if you do, consult some good local nurseries.

This is what one expert site, EarthEasy, says:

Large lawns are beautiful, but the cost is high. They need to be mowed, fed, trimmed and raked free of leaves each fall. A large lawn makes large demands on your energy and on the environment. Fuel for power mowers, toxic emissions, fertilizers and pesticides, water consumption and your valuable weekend time are all part of the cost of lawn maintenance. Hiring a lawn care service will save you the time and energy, but the environmental costs remain.

Reducing the size of your lawn will help the environment and save you time, energy and expense. And the result need not be a loss in aesthetic appeal. Groundcover These are plants which spread across the ground but do not grow tall, so no cutting is required. Areas planted in groundcover need little to no maintenance. Groundcovers are usually chosen for texture, density and how well they spread and choke out the weeds. They enhance the soil by acting as a mulch, and some groundcovers are nitrogen-fixing.

Many varieties are available, including flowering groundcovers which offer color and add emphasis to the seasons. Although groundcovers are usually perennials and evergreens, annuals make excellent groundcovers as well, but do require more work each spring.

During the first year, new plantings of groundcover will require weeding and mulching, but once established, little care is needed.

Groundcovers need an edge barrier to contain them. A low brick or wood edging, or any lawn edging which cuts down a few inches into the soil will usually be sufficient. Your nearby garden center can recommend local varieties and their characteristics.

http://eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_alternatives.htm

ChefTucker writes~ I have a lawn that needs help. Last year it didn't grow much so that I didn't have to mow it more that three times. It did turn green and looked okay but there are also a lot of thin spots. The ground is pretty hard under it. Last year we fertilized it and re-seeded it but nothing worked. I was thinking about aerating it and spreading some manure over it. I thought of this because it seems to grow well where dogs poop on it and I figured if I water it a lot it won't burn it. I'm not sure what to do and I don't want to harm it.

A. I am not a lawn expert, so will call upon a fine article for you to read, complete with diagrams. I hope this helps green up your lawn this season.

Results when using manure are not consistent because it varies in nutrient value, degree of decomposition, and freedom from weed seeds and disease organisms. It contains more nutrients than peat, and its acidity is usually less. It will not last in the soil as long as peat. In some areas barnyard manure is readily available. Although nutrients are lost in aging, thoroughly rotted, old manure is much better for plants than the fresh, strawy material. The greatest disadvantages of manure are the weed seeds and diseases that are often present. Manure with a high content of bedding materials may rob more nitrogen from the soil than it provides.

Composted or dried manure is more desirable since weed seeds and disease organisms have been killed. It is packaged for more convenient handling and often has plant nutrients added to bring it to a standard fertility level.

Fresh manure should not be used except as a light top-dressing on beds. If used in this way it should not touch any plant stems or leaves. Processed or rotted manure may be used in fairly large quantities as a soil amendment, mulch or top-dressing. Manure that has been rotted and exposed to weather may be used more liberally than the processed, bagged, dried manure. A layer 1 to 3 inches deep may be incorporated when preparing a flower bed or lawn seedbed, while no more than 1 to 2 inches of the processed type should be used.

Poultry manure contains greater amounts of nitrogen with less litter, and therefore should be used more cautiously than other manures. When preparing flower beds and lawn seedbeds only a 1- to 2-inch layer of rotted poultry manure should be added. If processed types are used, only a 3/4-to 1-inch layer should be incorporated.

http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06955.htm

Q. I am a first time homeowner and I plan to do some of my own tree and lawn care. What are some basic tips I should know for seeding and caring for my lawn?

A. The condition and type of the soil under the grass is the most important element to the overall health of your lawn. In situations where you are putting in a new lawn, prepare the soil before the grass is planted. Have the soil tested before establishing your new lawn. This report gives the type and amount of fertilizer to apply for your lawn. This fertilizer should be worked into the top 4-6" of your soil. Once your lawn is established it is hard to do much to improve the soil at the root level obviously.

Proper preparation of the soil is the first step in attaining a healthy lawn. Soil should be tilled thoroughly, either by a mechanical tiller or digging down a spades depth over the entire area.

Selecting the proper grass seed mixture is also important. What you intend to use the lawn area for, and the amount of maintenance you will want to provide are two important factors which must be considered before making the selection. Normally, you will buy a lawn seed mix which has been formulated with different seed types for different needs and different climates.

Most lawn grasses do well in mildly acid soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, preferably about 6.5. You need to decide what type of grass you want to grow, according to your climate, soils, and what the lawn will be used for. Your local nurseries will be able to help you with this decision.

Using a steel garden rake, a finish grade should be created to move water runoff away from the house. Level the soil to avoid any low spots where water may stand or high spots that could be cut too closely when mowed.

The best time to seed lawns is from late summer until early fall (8/15 to 9/20) while the soil is still warm. You can also seed a new lawn in April or May. Late summer lawn seeding is best because the soil is still warm (faster germination), watering will not be as much of a problem, there are fewer weed problems, and the cool season grasses in the mix will have a better chance of getting established.

Rake the seed into the soil surface lightly, barely under the soil. Roll entire lawn surface with an empty lawn roller to set the seed in contact with the soil. Water seeds in thoroughly with a fine mist. Once the seed is planted, make sure that the soil is kept evenly moist until germination. After the seeds germinate, you can water more heavily, still gently, but less frequently. You don't want to drown the seeds, nor do you want to wash them away.

Water will continue to be the prime concern for your new lawn. About 1" of water per week (rainfall plus irrigation) will be required until your lawn is well established. You may mow a newly seeded turf when the grass is 2 1/2-3" tall. Use a sharp mower so the grass is cut cleanly and the plants are not pulled out of the ground. Do not cut the grass too short, about 1 1/2 to 2 1/2". After the first mowing, you may apply a high nitrogen, turf fertilizer (23-4-6) at 1/2 the application rate recommended on the bag. Water immediately to prevent possible foliar burn.

Assistance: The Garden Helper

Deb writes~
I am starting to notice my yard has a yellow color to it [half green, to yellow]. The past few days yellow has started to take over. I tried using a fertilizer to get it back to its green color again and no luck. What's the problem?

A. First, keep after the lawn with good lawn food as Scotts. A few days is not nearly long enough. The slow yellowing has being going on for possibly weeks and a month or so, so allow the time needed to bring the food level back up. If you live where the winter ends and the lawn greens up, that is the time you should start right away with applying food!

It has been dormant all winter and now is expected to grow, with the warming temperatures, increased light and water. What it lacks is food, as the soil does not nearly have enough for all those blades to grow, be cut, grow back and be cut again and again.. Nitrogen is what is needed most all summer long, but regular lawn foods are composed with good grass in mind for the summer.

Follow the directions on the bag. If it is not worded for lawns, buy some at the nursery. It will tell you how much should be applied and in what time frame. Be sure to do as prescribed if you want a good green color.

If your area is lacking in rain, be sure to water well, deeply and often. The lack of water stresses lawns and that will turn them yellowish, too. So, keep an eye on the water, too.

May I also recommend using one with weed killer in it? Turf Builder Plus Two is fine. If you keep the nasty intruders down [but rarely out!], the grass will get more water and food and not share with all the dandelions and crab grass!