Gardening with Gary

Gardening Advice from an Expert

Peace Lilies

Q. I put my peace lily outdoors for some extra sunshine for about four hours on a sunny day...perhaps a bad idea. It now appears that her leaves are sunburned. They are no longer deep green, but sort of reddish brown. Could this be? Also, how often can I expect the peace lily to flower?

A. You most definitely burned the foliage. They can take some direct light, not so much in the heat of the summer, and definitely not in the heat and intensity of the day, as between 12-5PM. The chlorophyll breaks down and the green color gives way to yellow, brown or red. They will never return to normal, but the new leaves will come out fine. You may see a bit of burn on the first leaves out, as they were so tender when burned that they may have suffered, too.

Once your plant recovers, it should return to blooming regularly throughout the summer, with good, indirect light, plenty of water, and fertilizer every four weeks.

Here is some general cultural info for you:

Peace lilies are attractive indoor foliage plants that also produce showy white flowers. They are one of the few foliage plants that will flower in low light.

Most peace lilies grow between 1 to 4 feet tall and wide. The cultivar ‘Sensation' can reach a height of 6 feet with an equal width.

Peace lilies are sturdy plants with glossy, dark green oval leaves that narrow to a point. The leaves rise directly from the soil. These plants also periodically produce lightly fragrant white flowers that resemble calla lilies. The long-lasting flowers start out pale green and slowly turn creamy white as they open.

Peace lily will flourish in almost any well-drained potting mix. Soil should be kept moist but not soggy. The soil should dry out between waterings. Excessive drying out can cause the plant to wilt and the leaves and edges to yellow. When watering, use water that is at room temperature.

Peace lily will survive low interior light but would prefer bright filtered light. Peace lily should not be placed in direct sun or it will sunburn. These plants need very little fertilizer. If you fertilize, use a balanced, liquid houseplant fertilizer such as 20-20-20 every two to three months. Peace lilies enjoy warm conditions between 68 and 85 .

http://hgic.clemson.edu

Member P. Barker writes~
I saw the Clemson article in my 7/9/01 e-mail about peace lilies. It stated that they need to dry out between waterings. I have mine outside in moderate light underneath my big air conditioner, so it gets lots of water every day. It has never looked so good. The leaves are a rich green, and the flowers and large and multiple. It stays pretty wet all the time. Didn't know who I needed to pass this info on to. Thanks for listening.

A. It just goes to show you that plants perform differently for various growers and variable conditions. The information supplied is always written in generalities, even by the expert university researchers. I remember many heated arguments about culture in college during projects!

What works for you may or may not work for others. Just be thankful that your plants are doing great. Do not change a thing! In our African violet schools, we stress that there is no one way to do things. Try and experiment for yourself and find what works best for you.

Candy writes~ I read the posts on the site about the peace lily...But let me tell you about mine. This was a nice size one that the family received in November when my grandfather died. It was big and beautiful. I carried it from my family home in NC to my new home in TN. It sat in front of the balcony door where it received morning sunlight through partially opened blinds. For the first 3-4 weeks, it was doing great. I decided to take off the green florist wrap that it had come in and then I watered it, forgetting that the florist pot had holes in the bottom. So after cleaning the water off the carpet, I watered it again. I thought it probably didn't get enough water since my carpet got most of it. It seems that was a mistake. It has not perked back up since. It's bottom leaves are brown and all of the leaves are drooping, most of them all the way on the floor. I tried repotting but that hasn't helped. Is there any way to save it?

A. You sound correct in your assessment that the plant was indeed overwatered. Most gardeners have done this so many times they have lost track...and paid as you are now. I am pleased that you repotted immediately sensing a last ditch effort may save it. I assume you watered it in again, so it has been moist for quite a while. They are very sensitive to this occurrence.

Did you try to remove some of the old soil and replace with good, fresh potting soil mix? Added perlite would help in lightening the mix and thus reducing the amount of water retained for the roots. I fear you have lost most of the tiny root hairs which are at the tips of roots. They are responsible for bringing water and food up into the plant.

I wish I could point a simple sure way for the saving of your plant, but I cannot. Keep the plant as dry as you can without further wilting. Once the soil dries well, root hairs will form unless the plant is beyond hope. Do not fertilize, as this could further burn what remains of the root ball. We all live and learn. Plants must be pampered when their environment is changed and this includes placing in a lower light area and reducing water and food. I wish you well.

Maricaye writes~ I have Spathiphyllums in pots in a large planter box located between my kitchen and hallway. When I got them about 2 years ago, they were very full and green but didn't have any flowers. As the got bigger, I separated them. My problem is that the new leaves start to grow and then the tips turn brown. The bigger leaves have done the same and now there are only a few of the big ones left. I thought I might be overwatering them, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. I don't think it is the light either because I put one in a place with more light and the same thing happens. How can I fix this problem?

A. Spathiphyllum
[picture at: http://florawww.eeb.uconn.edu/acc_num/199200075.html

Peace Lily is a very popular indoor houseplant. In the warmest parts of the world, they are happy in the shaded outdoor landscape, and with protection from wind and temperatures below 55 degrees. Spathiphyllum is a clump-growing herbaceous perennial which produces white or green-white spaths during the warm months. Leaves are shiny and glossy, attractive even with no spaths.

Soil should be kept lightly moist, never wet. It is best to water thoroughly, likely once a week. Let the soil dry out almost completely between watering indoors. Depending on the indoor environment watering should be weekly. Many people overwater the plant keeping the soil soggy. Soil should be kept moist but not soggy. The soil should dry out between watering. Excessive drying out can cause the plant to wilt and yellowing of leaves and edges. When watering use water that is at room temperature. City water to sit to allow chlorinating to evaporate.

When grown indoors Spathiphyllum have most no need to be fertilized. If you must fertilize, any well balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will maintain growth. Pelleted fertilizers also work read instructions carefully. Indoors plants grow slower and therefore have lower requirements for food. Use approximately at 1/4 recommended strength during the warm summer months. Over fertilizing can produce burning of tips and roots.

Indoors, warmth, humidity and sunlight are critical for a Peace Lily. As a house plant, often, there is a sudden decline. In severe cases, the plant can quickly look droopy and the leaves will burn on the edges as yours has.

Depending on variety, your Spathiphyllum will vary by size (leaves, height), color of the spaths and intensity of bloom production. You can divide your Spathiphyllum by separating the clumps and replanting the pieces. Be very sure you plant at the same level as the original soil, and use a well drained mix. Peace Lily can tolerate much less light than nursery conditions, but the brighter the better for location. Keep away from drafts and cold. Keep your leaves clean with water washes to remove dust and dirt. Peace Lily can attract mites, scales and mealy bugs so cleaning will help keep these pests away.

Assistance from: www.spaths.com

Carolyn writes~ I received a peace lily for my birthday in May. Obviously I burnt the plant with too much Miracle-Gro. I was wondering if you could help me and please tell me how to try to save it. It is not completely burnt. There are still a few green leaves so I would like to know what to do with it before its completely dead. Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

A. The best you can do is care for it. Cut off or trim back the burnt or damaged leaves and discard. Protect from any direct sunlight and if weather is quite warm, shade it and make as cool as possible by placing it in a very protected area. Keep watered evenly but not soaking wet as the roots are stressed and may rot if the reduced foliage cannot absorb the water. Keep out of the rain as that much water would be excessive. Do not feed until you see some new recovering growth and then apply fertilizer at half strength so you do not burn the tender roots. Lilies are quite hardy so it probably will be OK and return to somewhat proper growth until fall when temperatures drop.

Sharon writes~
My peace lily has large black spots on the leaves. Can you tell me what is wrong and offer a remedy?

A. Peace lilies [Spathiphyllums] are attractive indoor foliage plants that also produce showy white flowers. They are one of the few foliage plants that will flower in low light. Most peace lilies grow 1-4' and are sturdy plants with glossy, dark green oval leaves that narrow to a point. The leaves rise directly from the soil. These plants also periodically produce lightly fragrant white flowers that resemble calla lilies. The long-lasting flowers start out pale green and slowly turn creamy white as they open. Peace lilies have few pest problems. Mealybugs are probably the most common insect indoors. Mites and scales can also be problems. Root and stem diseases as the black spot you may have are fungal infections and usually associated with overwatering. Check your local garden center for a spray or dust whose label mentions "For Black Spot fungus". Apply strictly according to the directions and avoid inhaling the chemical. Better yet, apply in a shaded outdoor location and when dry, bring back into the house. They are very sensitive to chilling temperatures. Injury varies with the temperature and length of exposure. Try to avoid temperatures below 60 F. Magnesium deficiency can cause plants to become stunted. Leaf tissue between the veins may yellow while veins remain green. The edges of the leaves can turn brown by overfertilization or by excessive drying. Peace lily will flourish in almost any well-drained potting mix. Soil should be kept moist but not soggy. The soil should dry out between waterings. Excessive drying out can cause the plant to wilt and the leaves and edges to yellow and become spotted with the fungus. When watering, use water that is at room temperature. Peace lily will survive low interior light but would prefer bright filtered light. Peace lily should not be placed in direct sun or it will sunburn. They need very little fertilizer. Use a balanced, liquid houseplant fertilizer such as 20-20-20 every 2-3 months. Peace lilies enjoy warm conditions between 68 and 85 F during the day and nighttime temperatures about 10 F cooler. Peace lilies have wide leaves that accumulate dust. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth to remove dust. Lack of flowering usually occurs on plants that are less than a year old or that receive insufficient light.

Prepared by Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist, and Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University.