TweetRoses
Rose Cuttings:
Q. What happens if I try and make a cutting from a hybrid rose
bush? Do I get the same rose, and can you even get anything
from a cutting?
A. If you are taking a stem cutting of a rose, then you will
get that same variety when it blooms. This is called vegetative
propagation. This is how the large commercials propagate their
established bushes to make enough new ones to sell all over
the world.
If you crossed the flower of one rose to the flower of a different
colored rose, then you may get a seed pod form. Once it has
matured on the bush, you harvest the pod, place in an envelope
and dry well, for several months.
Sow the seed on starter mix indoors and cover with glass or
plastic. Tiny seedling will come up if the cross produced viable
seed. Once they are large enough, they can be grown in the garden
or a greenhouse. It takes at least three years to see the first
bloom, so you can see why roses cost a lot. There is a lot of
time and energy involved in introducing new varieties.
Transplanting Roses:
If you want to move any of your roses, the best time is in the
late winter or spring, as soon as your soil is workable. Dig
new holes 1 1/2' deep and 2' wide, making a mound in
the center of the hole for you to drape the roots over. Keep
the bud union [where the graft is, the hybrid stem affixed to
the root stock] only about 2" above the soil surface. Use
a good rich humus soil.
Water in slowly but well. Keep the rose bushes evenly moist
until you see signs of new growth.
Remember that roses are heavy feeders throughout the season,
and are susceptible to rust, mildew, aphids and red spider mite.
Transplanting Blooming Roses:
Q. Can roses be transplanted while they're in bloom at this
time of year [late May]? I want to place them in front of our
home where they may be seen instead of behind our house. It's
between 2 1/2 feet and 3 feet tall.
A. Yes, you can move the plant, though it is not advised. I
want you to:
Get a pitchfork [which has tines instead of being a solid blade].
Go out about one foot from the reach of the branches and dig
in a circle. Be careful to go all the way, and lift inward.
Keep going around until you feel the bush loosening. Then, you
will be able to lift it out best without much root damage. You
will also be hauling out a lot of soil which will protect the
roots during the transplanting.
Lay it onto a large piece of plastic and pull to its new spot.
Have prepared a hole 6" deeper and around than your root
ball. Loosen the soil and add peat moss, compost or leaf mold.
This will enrich the soil. Make sure it has good drainage and
is in nearly full sun for best bloom. Carefully lower the plant
into the hole and maintain the same soil line as before. Fill
in with good soil and water in slowly and deeply. Do not press
the soil down as this shuts off needed oxygen.
If the new area is at all breezy, you may need to stake it gently
for just a month to hold it until the roots grow into the new
bed. Keep all spent blossoms and poor leaves removed and discarded
away from the bush.
Insects:
Q. Help! I have something eating my rose bush leaves. What do
I do, quick?
A. Start your insect prevention program before any insects arrive.
Identify the insect culprit. There are different treatments
for many of them.
Japanese Beetles are common. Pick off the adults and use insecticide
to kill off young in soil.
Aphids are also very common. Knock them off with a water stream
and/or use an insecticide.
Spittle bug, seen as white froth on new growth, can be dispatched
with a stream of water.
Sawfly. Rolls a leaf around eggs. Remove the leaf and destroy.
Leafhopper. A yellow-green insect that should be sprayed with
insecticide.
Spider Mite, seen as tiny reddish specks under leaves. Try an
intense water stream and/or a miticide.
Leaf Cutter Bee, cuts circles into edge of leaves. A beneficial
insect, so ignore their minor damage.
Lady Bugs are a desired insect. The young have voracious appetites
for aphids.
Always use insecticides very carefully, follow label directions.
Too much here is not a good thing. Safer's also makes environmentally
safe sprays which work to a less degree, but may give them a
try. Combination insecticide-fungicides are available, however
don't use unless you have both problems.
Always make certain your roses are well watered before applying
any chemical. It lessens leaf burn. Spray in the early AM before
the sunlight hits the foliage and stems. But, do not apply on
a shady, cool day, as the moisture will sit there and may lead
to black spot or rust fungi.
With help from: about.com
Member Eva writes~
I bought a little indoor miniature rose bush in October. How
can I make them flourish? Do I need to repot, or prune? How
do I fertilize them? The buds are drooping on me. What does
it mean? I have watered it twice already in 1.5 weeks.
A. Watch the watering and check the soil mix. They like a full,
rich organic mix. It may be fine now until repotting which I
want you to do in the spring.
Inside, roses are not well-suited. They love it outdoors, so
it will prove a bit tricky to make them happy. A planter box
right outside the window works so much better with lots of good
full sunlight.
Flowers are about through now. The wilting of them signals to
me that they went through a change of environment, probably
to a spot where the humidity is much lower. In heated spaces
during the winter, roses do very poorly. It is best to allow
them to rest, go dormant, and then shoot out tiny foliage next
spring followed by the blooms as one would expect. Rarely can
you get a rose bush to bloom throughout the winter unless you
have a greenhouse or a large strong plant light, or GroLux lamp
system as I use with my African violets.
I would not repot them now. This is best in the spring for roses.
But prune, yes! Go through and use sharp clean cutters and remove
any spindly yellowed or brown wood. Leave only the good strong
fresh branches. That will take the energy to the good stems
and allow more light for them without that garbage.
Cut to a leaf, right above it, and pick ones which have the
five parts to a leaf. They are stronger and will sprout out
a good stem. Do not be afraid to cut away, as it will help the
plant next year.
Feeding should be dropped to about nothing right now, unless
you see buds breaking and the stems are forming new leaves.
Then a 1/2 dilution once a month would be fine. Otherwise, hold
back on food and water to force it into dormancy, a rest period
until spring.
Mildew:
Eva writes~
I have an indoor miniature red rose bush. I noticed today that
there is white powder-like stuff around some of the leaves,
and around one of the rose buds. What can this mean? What should
I do?
A. You have powdery mildew. Roses indoors and out are prime
candidates for this very common attack. It is a fungus which
produces spores of white. You can blow on it or rub and it smears
like a fresh powder. nasty stuff. It will not kill your plant
but will mar the foliage and cause the buds to brown and die
before opening. It is extremely common, especially in areas
where air circulation is poor. Here in the City, due to our
plentiful fog, roses always get it, usually in the fall as the
vigor decreases and the mildew sets in.
There is a product you can buy for mildew. 'Mildex'
is very popular. Go to your local nursery or garden supply company
and look at fungicides for roses. It is a bestseller due to
the wide problem. In case you cannot locate it, ask a qualified
helper where it is. Ortho makes a brand, too.
A few suggestions and warnings:
Please follow the label directions carefully and exactly.
Do not spray near kids or pets. Take the plant outside if possible
and bring inside when done.
Spray the tops and bottoms of all leaves, stems and flowers.
Do not set the plant back into direct light until totally dry,
or you risk leaf burn.
Do not spray on a cool, dark day. The liquid needs to evaporate
off in warmth.
Wash your hands with warm soapy water after applying.
Do not place plant where kids or pets could eat or chew the
leaves.
Respray every 10 days to 2 weeks to kill off all spores. It
is not a one shot deal. Followup is very important for control.
Members Dan and Carol write~
Please tell me how to make a New Dawn rose bush continue to
bloom. This is the second year for my New Dawn roses. This Spring
they bloomed nicely, one time and never did anything else this
season. I do have lots of green growth. I'm in Zone 5 planting,
Upper New York State.
A. From what I have read, you must allow more time. Many growers
feel it is the easiest rose to grow. It reaches up to 20'
in any direction, but some hybrids bloom well only after three
years in the garden bed, in June, and rest until September.
Pruning out the overly large vigorous canes assists flower production.
It really needs full sun, though some report having it in partial
shade with success.
Here is some info on New Dawn Roses:
Also known as: 'Climbing Dr. W. Van Fleet', 'The
New Dawn'
Introduced: 1930, Dreer, USA
Class: Rambler
Zones:
4b-10
Parentage: Sport of 'Dr. W. Van Fleet'
Color & Form: Cream Pink, Double
Size:15 to 20 feet (10-15' in U.K.)
Fragrance: Good
Soft flowers which appear throughout the season. Excellent health
and vigor. Tolerates poor soil conditions. Highly recommended.
'New Dawn' is truly an excellent climber for large spaces. It has many strengths
and few weaknesses. Fully double flowers are produced in large
masses in spring, with smaller flushes following throughout
the summer; a nice fall bloom will provide the gardener with
warm memories during the cold nights of winter. Bloom color
is a creamy pink, fading to white during hot summer days. Foliage
is medium green and healthy, with excellent disease resistance.
It has an ability to prosper in poor growing conditions. 'New
Dawn' tolerates poor soil, partial shade, and is both heat
and cold tolerant. Do take care, however, as 'New Dawn'
is a 'big' climber; will cover large spaces, so prepare
for that when you plant.
It is fitting that this rose is perennially among the best-selling
of roses. It is also fitting that it should be the plant to
receive the first plant patent granted by the US patent office
in 1930, and to receive the last nomination as World's Favorite
Rose in this millennium, for it is a truly exceptional rose.
New Dawn starts bearing flowers when the frosts cease and continues
to bear them at least until the frosts start again. The flowers
have a unique high-centered form and come in the most delicate
shade of pink. Not strongly fragrant, they are sweetly so.
The soft pink is one that can be used almost anywhere in the
landscape, and the almost-evergreen foliage means the rose looks
handsome at least three seasons a year. The flowers may be sweet,
tender, and delicate, but the plant is big, strong, vigorous,
and free of pests or disease. I've seen New Dawn produce
a plant 20 feet in every direction in a single year. Because
of its beauty and ease of culture it's an especially gratifying
rose to grow as a beginner.
Assistance from: www.rosefile.com and
www.timelessroses.com
Rose Petals:
Q. What can be done with rose petals?
A. Here are some websites with ideas for you:
Freeze-Dried
Petals Information
General Information Quality freeze-dried Rose Petals do not
come easily. This is why they are relatively hard to find in
the general marketplace.
www.weddingpetals.com/aboutrosepetals.htm
Rose Petals Everywhere!
Real Dry Rose Petals that Look Fresh
Decorative, dried rose petals are perfect for flower girls because
they don't stain woodwork and carpets like fresh rose petals
do.
www.lookalive.com/faq.htm
Everything's
Coming Up Roses
You can also mix the dried petals with dried lavender flowers
and ... bag and scent your bath. Do not use essential oils.
Old Fashioned Rose Potpourri Recipe:
www.seedsofknowledge.com/roses2.html
Rose Petals for
Peace
I remove the dried rose potpourri petals which sit in a glass
container andreplace them with a new batch. I am asking that
you do the same ritual.
www.rosepetalsforpeace.com/
Rose Beads Made from Miniature
Roses, Rosary kits, Jewelry
What they are and what you can do with them. Medium-size Miniature
Roses made for many years from the rose petals of miniature
roses.
www.rosebeads.com
Rose Petals Everywhere! Real Dry Rose Petals that Look Fresh
An elegant and lavish wedding like movie stars and royalty and
do it on your budget! Rose Petals Everywhere! TM are real rose
petals which have been freeze.
www.lookalive.com/rosepetals.htm
Making Rose Petal Beads
http://www.mindspring.com/~maclain/southdowns/phoenix/Articles/rosebeads.html
Rose Beads
www.markw.com/rosebeads.htm
Winter Protection:
Q. I have miniature climbing roses that are supposed to be subzero
hardy. I live in New York and am worried about the winter months.
Do I need to protect them, and if so how?
A. Treat miniature roses just like regular roses for winter
protection. However, only mound six to eight (6" to 8")
inches of soil through the center of the plant. Eight to ten
(8" to 10") inches of oak leaves with evergreen boughs
on top can also be used successfully. Remove winter protection
in the spring when the ground has thawed and new buds start
emerging.
Protecting roses for the winter is not a scientific process.
There are as many different measures as there are types of roses.
The whole practice of winter protection is not to prevent the
cold from reaching the plants, but to keep them cold. More rose
injury occurs due to freezing and thawing and heaving action
throughout the winter than severe cold temperatures. One of
the best protection methods is to cut canes (stems) back to
three (3) feet high around Thanksgiving. The soil should be
frozen; plants need to be in a dormant state before protection
is applied. Rake up and collect fallen leaves. Remove old mulch
and compost or dispose. Spray plants one final time with a rose
fungicide or lime sulfur spray, making sure to spray all canes
and the base of the plant. Tie canes with old nylon stockings
or soft twine to prevent canes from whipping in the wind during
the winter. Plants shorter than two and a half (2 1/2) feet
should not be cut. Water plants thoroughly unless soil is moist.
The vegetable garden is a good location; the soil can then be
returned to the garden in the spring. Wood or bark chips can
also be used as well as old sawdust. Top the chips and sawdust
with evergreen boughs to hold in place. However, soil provides
the best protection. Oak leaves can also be used as they are
the only leaves that tend not to mat down. Top with evergreen
boughs to hold in place. Continued on next page Rose cones can
be used. Like regular winter protection, their purpose is to
keep the plant cold and limit freezing and thawing. Rose canes
should be cut to fit comfortably beneath the cones. Four to
six inches of soil is still added down the center of the plant.
Place a brick or two on top of the cone to anchor it in place.
Finally, poke a couple of holes in the cone at the top to promote
ventilation. Three (3) nail holes should be sufficient size.
Remove winter protection in the spring when the ground has thawed
and new buds emerge.
Credit: University of Illinois, College of Agricultural, Consumer
and Environmental Sciences, Cooperative Extension Service
Leaf Mold:
Gary, I have a problem with mold on the leaves of some of my
roses. I cannot seem to totally get rid of it. I am afraid that
it will infect my other plants. My roses get sun 3/4's of
the day.
A. That certainly is enough sun which also dries the rose foliage
so that mold, bacteria, fungi and mildew do not have the ideal
conditions to flourish.
Humidity is also involved. If it is high [as in muggy], the
amount of water in the air is very high close to the foliage,
almost to saturation. This definitely will encourage mold.
I do not know if this mild is white, black or greenish. That
would clue me in more as to what exactly you have. If it is
black, I suspect black spot, a fungus. If it is powdery white,
then it probably is mildew.
I want you to pick off two leaves with good examples of this
problem, bag them securely in a clear plastic bad, and take
to your best garden center or nursery or to a local Ag department.
Have a knowledgeable person inspect and I am certain it will
be easily identified. Then, apply the appropriate spray according
to the label's directions, in the AM for four weeks.
Keeping Cut Roses Fresh:
Q. When I receive a bouquet of roses, they seem to last only
a couple days. What am I doing wrong?
A. Try these ideas for keeping cut roses fresh:
Your roses have traveled a long distance, and will need some
special care to help them look their best. Fill your favorite
vase 3/4 of the way with lukewarm water and contents of a floral
preservative package. Remove your bouquet from the box by cutting
the band securing it.
Strip the rose stem of any foliage that will be underwater.
This will help prevent your roses from wilting. Remove water
tubes from ends of the stems. With a sharp knife or cutting
shears, cut at least 1" off the bottom of each stem underwater.
Place your roses in vase immediately. Carefully pluck off one
or two outer "guard petals" of your roses if they
have become bruised during shipping.
You should recut stems every few days, and keep vase filled
with fresh water. Displaying your farm-direct roses out of direct
sunlight and drafts will prolong the life of your bouquet.
Courtesy 1-800-Flowers
Traci, Florida~ I just bought a beautiful Chrysler Imperial
rose plant. I will be moving soon and don't want to plant
it in the ground so I can take it with me when I leave. It is
in a 1 gallon pot right now. How long will it be OK in that
pot? Can I replant it in another pot? If so, how large should
that pot be? Also, what can I do about yellow leaves and white
spots on the leaves? Also, how much sun does it need daily?
A. Chrysler Imperial [Early Hybrid tea, hardy Zones 5-9] has
stayed around because of its catchy, classy name. It deserved
its selection as an All-America rose in 1952-3, after which
is became the red rose to beat, and beaten it was...soundly,
by Precious Platinum, Toro, and Olympiad, to name only three.
I admit that Chrysler Imperial is sumptuously fragrant, but
on the downside, there is powdery mildew [your white spots]
on already-dull foliage, lack of vigor, and short stems.
Here is a good page on your rose:
http://www.helpmefind.com/sites/rrr/pl.php?n=1175
If you are moving within 30-40 days, I recommend that you leave
the bush in its container. If it will be a longer time, pot
up to a 2 gallon container and water in well, keeping it in
a bright, sunny location with at least 6 hours light and gentle
breezes.
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can appear on
many types of trees and plants. While it will not necessarily
kill outright, the plant or tree will become more susceptible
to other problems and its appearance and the amount of flowers
and fruit it produces will decline. It can occur in any geographic
region, but is most prevalent in the arid regions of western
North America. If left untreated, it will persist year after
year.
With Powdery mildew infestation, the plant gives the appearance
of having been dusted with flour or talcum powder. It is most
likely to attack in the spring and the fall when the weather
is cool and the humidity is high. Spores are carried by the
wind and rain to new plant hosts.
To lessen the chance of the disease occurring, plant in non-shaded
areas. Space plants providing enough aeration and growing room.
Prune and thin out branches and monitor for any signs of infection.
Collect infected leaves and remove. Provide enough moisture,
always watering in the morning or late afternoon.
Powdery mildew may be treated with baking soda spray, or commercially
produced fungicides. These products may include sulfur, fenarimol,
dinocap, triadimifon or benomyl. Refer to the instructions on
the package to determine method and timing of application. Weather
conditions such as temperature and humidity are important factors
when determining when to apply fungicides.
http://www.treehelp.com/trees/rose/rose-diseases-powdery-mildew.html
The yellow leaves are related to the mildew attack. Also, be
sure you are feeding this plant. Give it a rose fertilizer and
follow the label directions. Roses are heavy feeders and drinkers,
and the nitrogen will give the bush greener foliage while it
recovers.
Rhonda writes~ I have recently moved to a house with rose
bushes. But they have a sticky residue on them and also I have
noticed tiny green bugs covering them. I've never had rose
bushes before, but I suspect these are aphids, maybe? Can you
give me an idea what kind of insecticide or treatment I should
purchase for these bushes? The roses smell heavenly, and are
quite pretty, except for a brown edge to most of the roses.
A. You have inherited a buggy situation but not one out of total
control. Aphids sound like the problem. They feed on plants
by sucking plant sap from the leaves, twigs or stems. When abundant,
aphids remove large quantities of sap, reducing plant growth
and vigor. Most aphids excrete large quantities of a sweet,
sticky substance called honeydew. Sooty mold fungus may grow
on the honeydew, producing a gray, unattractive covering of
the leaves. The mold is not damaging to the bushes except when
it covers leaves and temporarily reduces photosynthesis.
Rid the bushes of the bugs and the rest will be resolved. But,
you will have to keep a wary eye on them all season long. Disyston
is a systemic insecticide sold in granular form, or as a plant
food mixture that can be mixed with soil and picked up by plant
roots. Merit [imidacloprid] is a systemic insecticide used in
soil injections by commercial pesticide applicators.
Most systemic insecticides are quite toxic to people. Therefore,
use with extra caution. Some plants may be injured by certain
systemic insecticides. Carefully read and follow all label directions.
None of the systemic insecticides available to homeowners can
be legally used on food crops.
Contact insecticides that do not move systemically in plants
are useful for aphid control where the insects are exposed on
the plants. Contact insecticides for aphid control include Malathion,
Diazinon and Durban. Plant coverage must be thorough when using
contact insecticides. Diazinon is extremely hazardous to birds,
so use with extra caution on plants frequented by birds for
nesting or feeding.
On tolerant plants, insecticidal soaps or certain dilute dishwashing
detergents (1 to 2 percent concentration) can provide aphid
control. Good plant coverage is important when using soaps or
detergents because these products may injure plants. Always
test soap or detergent on a small area of the plant.
Q. My roses were doing so well until we got some cool, overcast
and wet weather! Now, I see red circles on the tops and bottoms
of very healthy green leaves. What should I do? I want them
to bloom this summer after all the work I have done. Help, please.
A. Rust is a fungal disease that causes red-orange spots on
the undersides of leaves and yellow blotches on the top. This
airborne disease spreads quickly, so remove all infected leaves
from the plant and the ground around the plant. Good sanitation
is the best cure. You can also spray the plant with a fungicide
such as 'Rose Defense'.
Jean writes~
I need to know what to feed my roses with. I buy products at
the store, but they don't seem to work. I have climbing
roses that don't climb...they grow straight, and flower
for a few weeks and the turn yellow and get spots. I try not
to water them a lot, I need to know about using home remedies!
A. I cannot recommend any home remedies since I do not know
what they are for. Are you buying a specific rose fertilizer?
If you follow the directions, you should have good healthy green
foliage and plentiful flowers, if the bushes are well-watered
during the summer, the soil contains good organic material,
the bushes have an inch mulch around them and they get at least
half day full sunlight.
As for the spots, it is probable you have a common fungus as
rust or black spot. There is no good remedy for these attacks
except a fungicide from a nursery.
TM writes~ My roses have holes inside the stems, what kind
of insect does this? What is the natural product to use to get
rid of them?
A. Rose cane borers! You can hopefully cut them all out by cutting
below the bulge in the stem where the borer was. Cane borers
in pruned canes are generally not a problem to be concerned
about. We may blame a borer for killing a cane, but more likely
the cane was already dead or weak, and thus attractive to the
nesting bee or wasp. If a few canes do become damaged, the nests
are shallow, and the cane can be repruned to a lower bud.
If you had a serious infestation last season (you are just now
noticing all the holes), you probably had an abundant supply
of aphids the past couple of seasons. You can seal the cane
ends, but vow to monitor the aphid population more carefully.
Try using organic Safer's Insecticidal Soap as recommended
on the label, repeat as called for to rid yourself of the aphids
since they will continue to find your roses by flying from nearby
bushes.
It has been found that an alternative control is to seal pruned
cane ends with Elmer's glue or a Nu-Bark pruning stick in
order to control the aphid population. The wasps will then search
for other nesting sites with a reliable source of food.
The Official Website for the Seattle Rose Society:
http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/index.html
Q. My roses have little green aphids I think. They are all
along the stems. What do I do?
A. These tiny, soft-bodied bugs are less than 1/10" across.
The color varies, depending upon what they are eating. Green
stems of roses for instance will exhibit green aphids.
Deterrents:
Plant alliums such as garlic and chives, as well as anise, coriander,
nasturtiums, and petunias as companion plants. They can act
as deterrents.
Use yellow sticky traps or yellow dishes containing soapy water
to trap aphids.
Spray stems, leaves, entire bushes with a water from your garden
hose. This will knock them off [in addition to red spider mites]
but not kill them.
Spray plants with soap sprays [try Safer's Insecticidal
Soap Spray] or mint tea.
Spray with chemical insecticides as raid House and Garden. Repeat
as directed on the label.
Lacewings will eat up to 100 aphids per day, and ladybugs also
eat large quantities of aphids. You can purchase boxes of them.
Margaret writes~
I live in Vermont, USA and my first year with climbing roses.
Do I bend them over and mulch, or cut them down and mulch?
A. It is better to prune the rose canes rather than bend them
over once fall has set in, temperatures have dropped and all
the leaves have fallen. Depending upon how tall and gangly the
vines have become, this task could be mild to severe. Usually
it is preferred to have the branches no taller than 3 feet above
the soil line, even shorter. Remove weak interior branches and
shape the bush to an upright oval. Cut back stems to good, thick
nodes. This will ensure a healthy, more vigorous sprout come
spring. Make sure any diseased foliage is removed, bagged and
discarded. Do not mulch with dead damaged leaves of any kind,
but only fresh, disease-free leaves. Avoid oak leaves as they
are quite acidic. Mulches can range from one inch to half a
foot.
Lou writes~
Dear Sir, would you please tell me what is a good HOME remedy
for rust fungi in roses? I would appreciate any help... someone
suggested white vinegar diluted in water...OK?
A. Rust causes rust-colored spots on leaf undersides and is
most common during periods of warm days and cool nights. Remove
winter prunings and spray dormant oil combined with lime sulfur,
as for black spot. Sulfur-based fungicides have long been the
organic gardener's weapon of choice for battling fungal
diseases. They provide reasonable control but show residues
on the leaves and petals and cannot be used when temperatures
exceed 90F. Sulfur sprays are difficult to apply as they may
clog sprayer. You may try the vinegar water spray, but there
is no recommendation. Whole Neem oil is a promising new product.
Unlike Neem oil extracts used to control insects, whole Neem
oil controls black spot, powdery mildew, and rust as well as
many insects and mites. It's also less expensive than Neem
oil extracts, comes from the tropical Neem tree, Azadirachta
indica. It is cleaned but is not refined and does not mix very
well with water, therefore only mix whole Neem oil into water
that is warm. It is different from Neem oil extracts, which
have been available for a few years, and is currently available
from only one company. The product name is Rose Defense and
it is available from the Green Light Co. (Box 17985, San Antonio,
TX, 210-494-3481). Apply 2 tablespoons per gallon water.
http://doityourself.com/flowers/growingrosesthenaturalway.htm
Cindy writes~ I recently moved into a home here in Las Cruces,
NM, that has the entire East-facing side of the house covered
in huge old rose bushes. Unfortunately they are more tall than
wide, some canes reaching the eaves of the house! This spring
they bloomed nicely but are now looking rather spindly. As a
former Midwesterner I used to know how to take care of roses,
but know that here in the arid SW the climate and care of roses
seems to be completely different. How should I prune them; how
far back; what time of year should they be pruned; what should
I feed them; how often; with what? Given the low amount of rainfall
here (only 8-12" per year) they are watered with a sprinkler
system. How often and how much should they be watered a week?
A. This area is not known in my expertise so I am citing portions
of two articles to assist you. One of the most important aspects
of rose care in the desert is watering. Roses need frequent
irrigation during hot weather. In the spring, 2-3 waterings
weekly are required when daytime highs are in the 80's and
lower 90's. As temperatures approach 95 F. increase watering
to 3-4 times weekly, making sure the water penetrates to a depth
of 2-3'. This deep watering not only stimulates deep rooting
of your roses, but also keeps harmful salts washed down below
the root system. To help conserve moisture and keep rose roots
cooler, cover the soil with an organic mulch, 3-4" thick.
Straw, compost, chipped bark, ground western cedar, and pine
needles all work well. Desert roses need heavy amounts of plant
nutrients to stay healthy and happy, responding to regular applications
of nitrogen and phosphorous. Magnesium in the form of Epsom
salts promote basal shoot development and overall health. The
form nutrients take can vary. Quick release, slow release and
organic forms all have their place but slow release forms promote
a constant but mild level of nutrients. This avoids the ‘feast
or famine' condition that can arise when using standard
granular fertilizers. Slow release fertilizers in the desert
only last half the time indicated on the package label. So a
3 month timed-release product will last just 6 weeks. If you
use a standard granular fertilizer or rose food, make applications
of these every 4 weeks up to June. Then cut the amount per application
in half, from June through August, to allow roses to rest during
the heat of Summer. Products like Peters, Schultz, and Miracle-Gro
can be applied to bolster the plants nutrient levels as needed
through the season. In addition, roses may require periodic
applications of iron. If new leaves have yellowed, apply ‘chelated'
iron to the soil. Be on the look out for rose pests as aphids,
mites and cane borers. Since the first year determines the future
of the rose, begin with good organic planting soil. Be sure
to avoid adding too many supplements and spraying with chemicals.
A mix of good mulch with your soil, or a high quality planting
soil, is best. If the grower specializes in old roses and offers
guidelines, follow the instructions. Even organic pesticides
and soaps may not agree with these independent plants. Desert
roses do not appreciate too much attention and may be killed
by kindness, especially during their first year. In the Southwest,
plant in December and January to avoid the early heat waves.
The care and plant characteristics vary so check the information
on specific plants you like. Some bloom on old wood and some
bloom on new wood, which determines whether you can prune your
plants and when.
John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the
University of Arizona, March 28, 2004 and Roses for the Desert
by Penny J. Leisch.
Dawn writes~
I'm not really sure what the bugs are on my rose bush but
they look like a very small green grasshoppers. They are doing
a job on the leaves. Do you have a recipe available for this
problem? I have used your recipe for aphid control. Results...aphids
gone; green things feeding.
A. They are probably leafhoppers. The most common found on roses
are the white apple leafhopper
(Typhlocyba pomaria) and the rose leafhopper (Edwardsiana
rosae). Both species are similar, except for small black
spots on the nymph of the rose leafhopper. Both are white, about
1/8" long, and found on roses, apples, blackberries and
other related plants. They appear long and slim, with wings
folded tight along the sides of the body, like a tent. When
disturbed, they "jump" away, flying really. They generally
are found on the underside of leaves, and first noticed by stippling
on the top of the leaf similar to that of spider mites but larger.
Control is usually not necessary unless a severe infestation
is present [more than one per leaf.] This is more common around
apple orchards that may serve as hosts. There is an egg parasite,
Anagrus epos Girault, that attacks leafhopper eggs,
and predatory mirids [plant bugs] also attack nymphs, but are
not considered significant controls. Controlling nearby host
plants such as brambles is usually more effective. If chemical
controls are necessary, they are most effective during the nymph
stage of the first generation [mid-May to early June.] In apple-growing
regions, leafhoppers have been developing a resistance to organophosphate
insecticides. Carbaryl [Sevin] may be effective, but currently,
the insecticide of choice is imidacloprid, a systemic chloro-nicotinyl
insecticide also effective against aphids, whiteflies, mealy
bugs, scale and thrips Or try Merit. Safer's Insecticidal
Soap is good but far less effective, needing weekly applications
for a month.
http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gblfhop.html
Brenda writes~
I have 2 rose bushes that are not doing well at all. I have
chose to dig them up, but would like to know when to replant
new ones. I live in Jacksonville, FL.
A. Florida roses are grown in Florida specifically for Florida
soil and climate. These roses are very resistant to nematode
damage and well suited to the sandy soils of this state. The
biggest mistake most Florida gardeners make is planting rose
bushes that are field grown in climates very different and budded
on rootstocks which are not productive and do not live long
in Florida. Buy roses grown for Florida gardens because Florida
has a 12-month gardening climate, the rose is an evergreen shrub
that will grow and bloom for 5-20 years in the garden if cared
for properly. Planting is best done in November in southern
Florida and in December or January in northern Florida. They
should be planted where they will receive a minimum of 6 hours
of sunlight preferably where they can receive the morning sun
because it will dry the dew on the leaves and lessen the chance
of black spot. Roses should be planted in rich but well-drained
soil. Since sand drains too quickly and does not hold nutrients
well it should be improved by adding amendments such as peat,
composted cow manure, and compost. Add as much as 4-6"
of any or all of these amendments to improve your soil. Roses
are heavy feeders and a wide variety of fertilizer is recommended
to feed them. The secret to feeding Florida roses is to apply
fertilizer once a month. It is recommended that newly planted
roses should not be fertilized until new growth emerges, although
1/2 cup of Milorganite may be applied as a top dressing on new
plantings. Water your roses well once a week unless there is
rain. Water in the morning so that the leaves are not wet during
the night as wet leaves can host foliage diseases.
Hybrid Tea Roses Recommended for Florida:
Red -- Crimson Glory, Etoile de Holland,
Mirandy, Tropicana
Pink -- Charlotte, Armstrong, Dainty Bess
(single)
Yellow -- Eclipse, Golden Scepter, Kings
Ransom, Lady Elgin, Mrs. P.S. DuPont
White -- K.A. Victoria, White Knight
Bicolor -- Comtesse Vandal, Lucky Piece,
Pres. Herbert Hoover, Talisman
Floribunda Varieties Recommended for Florida
Red -- El Capitan, Floradora, Fusilier,
Red Pinocchio
Pink -- Fashion, Pink Chiffon, Pinocchio
Yellow -- Allgold, Gold Cup, Goldilocks
White -- Ivory, Fashion, Saratoga
Bicolor -- Circus, Rumba
When buying your rose bushes remember that you should buy your
roses from a reputable nursery to prevent disappointment and
poor quality rose bushes; Florida container-grown roses are
the best buy because you can see the rose in flower when you
buy it and you can be fairly sure that the plant is healthy
and vigorous; many rose bushes have "All American Rose
Selection" on their tags. This means that the rose has
been tested and has outperformed other varieties under an assortment
of soils and climates and will undoubtedly perform well in your
garden.
Pearlene writes~
Do you know if there are any rose plants named Emily? I want
to give a rose plant to my granddaughter for her birthday and
there must be one out there named Emily. I live in Lincoln,
CA. If you can point me in the right direction I'd surely
appreciate it.
A. The only rose closes what follows:
Old Garden Rose 'Lady Emily Peel' Cultivar information:
1862
Class: Bourbon Hybrid Perpetual Noisette
Hardiness:
USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 degrees C (0 degrees F)
USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 degrees C (5 degrees F)
USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 degrees C (10 degrees F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 degrees C (15 degrees F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 degrees C (20 degrees F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 degrees C (25 degrees F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 degrees C (30 degrees F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 degrees C (35 degrees F)
Bloom Color: White
Bloom Shape: Double
Flower Fragrance: Very Fragrant
Bloom Time: Late Spring/Early Summer, Blooms repeatedly
Patent Information: Non-patented
http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/52715/
Dawn writes~
Thank you for your excellent site, Gary! I have a question regarding
roses. I read the answers to the questions that were already
asked, but I still have a couple of questions. I live in Central
WA where it gets quite cold in the winter. I have 20 roses and
I've pruned them back a little already. I know I'm supposed
to prepare them for winter, although the first year I didn't
and they seemed to do well, and then the next winter I raked
up bark around them and a number of canes were black in the
spring. Is it OK to use maple leaves for cover (that's all
I have access to) Also, do I wait until we no longer get warmer
days (it is still 45-50F daytime) Also, you mentioned to spray
one last time with a fungicide. Do I wait till it's all
frozen or anytime now? I have lots to learn, and I thank you
for your help.
A. Please spray with fungicide one last time before the cold
weather and freezing if you experience it. As to mulch, maple
leaves are fine to use though oak give the soil high acidity
so should be avoided. Mulch improves the quality of life of
a rose in these ways: It prevents competing plants from taking
root in the rose's territory; It decreases water evaporation
from the soil without decreasing absorption, It decreases temperature
swings in the soil, keeping it cool during the summer and warm
during the winter It keeps you from running into the rose with
the weedeater or lawn mower. It can help protect a rose against
severe winter conditions If piled high enough it can reduce
moisture loss in canes of new transplants. All sorts of materials
are suitable for mulch. Some commonly used ones are pine needles,
pine bark, wood chips, chopped roots, coconut hulls, cocoa hulls,
and peanut hulls. Sometimes rocks and gravel are used as a mulch.
This works to some extent, but it is less effective in most
of the categories, and it does not help feed the soil. Do not
use grass clippings or unrotted leaves. They will decompose
quickly and while doing so will eat up nitrogen and other nutrients.
A good depth is 3". Less than 2" and the beneficial
effects dwindle rapidly. More than 3" and the plants start
to treat it as a kind of topsoil and mulch is not a very good
topsoil. This is a bit less of a problem with deeply rooted
roses than it is for other cultivars. A west-coast rose grower
advocates piling mulch over most of the exposed canes of a new
transplant, then removing it when the rose leafs out. This limits
desiccation, a major reason for failure in new transplants.
People in northern climates will sometimes pile mulch 6-12"
to protect frost-tender roses. This is usually preceded by pruning
the rose to a height that roughly matches the depth of mulch.
In the spring as the tulips blossom the mulch is pulled away
from the rose. There are insulation blankets available for this
purpose. The head of a prominent garden in Quebec pulls the
stems of roses down to the ground instead of pruning them, then
protects with a polyfoam blanket. Where rose stems are pliable
enough to do this, it can work well also.
http://www.rosefile.com/RosePages
C. writes~
What are the ingredients to making your own spray for black
spot on roses?
A. Here are several ideas:
Garlic and Pepper Spray...protect your garden plants by brewing
a batch as follows:
6 cloves of garlic
1 tablespoon dried hot pepper
1 minced onion
1 teaspoon pure soap (not detergent)
1 gallon hot water
Blend and let sit for 1-2 days. Strain and use as spray. Ground
cayenne or red hot pepper can also be sprinkled on the leaves
of plants (apply when leaves are slightly damp) to repel chewing
insects or added to the planting hole with bone meal or fertilizer
to keep squirrels, chipmunks, dogs and other mammals away from
your gardens. Be sure to reapply after rain. Another version...liquefy
2 bulbs of garlic and 2 hot peppers in a blender 1/2 to 2/3
full of water. Strain the solids and add enough water to the
garlic/pepper juice to make 1 gallon of concentrate. Use 1/4
cup of concentrate per gallon of spray. To make garlic tea,
simply omit the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. Add two
tablespoons of blackstrap molasses for more control.
Baking Soda Fungicide...Black spot is a fungal disease that
produces black spots on the leaves of infected roses. In severe
cases, the plant can be defoliated. Remedy...mix 3 tablespoons
Baking Soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons horticultural oil and one gallon
of water. Spray the mix onto infected plants. Reapply as often
as needed. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with
black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases.
Avoid overusing or pouring on the soil. Potassium bicarbonate
is a good substitute for baking soda. Citrus oil and molasses
can be used instead of horticultural oil.
Potassium Bicarbonate Fungicide...mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded
tablespoon) of potassium bicarbonate into one gallon of water.
Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot,
powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Potassium
bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda.
Vinegar Fungicide...mix 3 tablespoons of natural apple cider
vinegar in one gallon of water. Spray during the cool part of
the day for black spot on roses and other fungal diseases. Adding
molasses at 1 tablespoon per gallon will again help.
Glenda writes~
My Mom used to make starts from other rose bushes. I cannot
remember how she would do it and she has since passed on. I
have asked every one I know, and nobody knows how. Any information
you might get would be greatly appreciated.
A. Jar method: This is probably the easiest way to take cuttings:
not much equipment is needed, just a clear quart-size glass
jar and some cuttings from your favorite rose. A 2-liter plastic
bottle with the top cut off will work well. Cut a piece of rose
stem about 6" long, remove the bottom set of leaves and
stick the stem into the ground 2" deep, and cover with
a jar. Periodically water the soil around the jar; otherwise
the rose stem will dry out. It will take a couple of months
for the rose stem to take root and begin leafing out with its
new growth. The best time of year is spring or early fall. If
you live in a mild climate, then winter and summer can also
be successful for rooting roses. Intense summer heat of 100F
is not conducive for taking cuttings, nor are 32F or below winters.
Baggie method: Fill 2" plastic pots with potting soil or
medium, insert the rose stem halfway inside the pot, then put
the pots into a one-gallon plastic zip-lock bag. You can get
4 2" pots into each gallon bag. Bags tend to fold over
and therefore prevent air from circulating, so the success rate
of this method is not very good. Misting method: Set up a misting
bench. It can be an open-air bench or one enclosed in a greenhouse,
or even a small misting box. Rig it up with a manual or an automatically
timed mister-whatever your time, money, or expertise will allow.
Mist-a-Matic system is quite good whose major benefit is to
control the misting cycle according to weather conditions. Too
much water promotes disease and wastes water. Too little water
causes leaves to wilt and failure to root. The Mist-a-Matic
distributes the correct amount of water. In hot weather, the
unit will turn on more frequently as the water evaporates. In
cooler weather, the unit turns on less frequently. Planting
mediums: There are 2 planting mediums for successfully rooting
rose cuttings. One is a 50-50% blend of potting soil and perlite.
This is a very light blend that encourages the roots to grow.
The second is to use 2" x 2" chunks of moistened floral
Oasis. Stick the rose stems into the Oasis and when the rose
has become fully rooted, as evidenced by the roots coming out
the bottom, place the rose stem into a small container with
the chunk of Oasis still on the bottom of the stem and fill
the container full of potting soil, leaving the Oasis intact.
(Do not remove the Oasis from the rooted rose stem cutting because
you will break the roots.)
Tips for Rooting Cuttings:
Use sharp cutters to prevent crushing the stem.
Rooting hormone is optional; it works with or without it.
Label your rose cuttings with their proper name.
It takes 4 to 8 weeks for the cutting to root, depending on
the weather.
Keep the cuttings moist at all times, with good air circulation
and sunlight.
Make slits in the bottom inch of the stem to encourage more
rooting.
Reprinted and edited from the September 2000 issue of Rose Ecstasy,
bulletin of the Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society, Kitty Belendez
Editor.
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