Gardening with Gary
Gardening Advice from an Expert
Roses
Rose Cuttings:
Q. What happens if I try and make a cutting from a hybrid rose bush? Do I get
the same rose, and can you even get anything from a cutting?
A. If you are taking a stem cutting of a rose, then you will get that same variety
when it blooms. This is called vegetative propagation. This is how the large commercials
propagate their established bushes to make enough new ones to sell all over the
world.
If you crossed the flower of one rose to the flower of a different colored rose,
then you may get a seed pod form. Once it has matured on the bush, you harvest the
pod, place in an envelope and dry well, for several months.
Sow the seed on starter mix indoors and cover with glass or plastic. Tiny seedling
will come up if the cross produced viable seed. Once they are large enough, they
can be grown in the garden or a greenhouse. It takes at least three years to see
the first bloom, so you can see why roses cost a lot. There is a lot of time and
energy involved in introducing new varieties.
Transplanting Roses:
If you want to move any of your roses, the best time is in the late winter or
spring, as soon as your soil is workable. Dig new holes 1 1/2' deep and 2' wide,
making a mound in the center of the hole for you to drape the roots over. Keep the
bud union [where the graft is, the hybrid stem affixed to the root stock] only about
2" above the soil surface. Use a good rich humus soil.
Water in slowly but well. Keep the rose bushes evenly moist until you see signs
of new growth.
Remember that roses are heavy feeders throughout the season, and are susceptible
to rust, mildew, aphids and red spider mite.
Transplanting Blooming Roses:
Q. Can roses be transplanted while they're in bloom at this time of year [late
May]? I want to place them in front of our home where they may be seen instead of
behind our house. It's between 2 1/2 feet and 3 feet tall.
A. Yes, you can move the plant, though it is not advised. I want you to:
Get a pitchfork [which has tines instead of being a solid blade]. Go out about
one foot from the reach of the branches and dig in a circle. Be careful to go all
the way, and lift inward. Keep going around until you feel the bush loosening. Then,
you will be able to lift it out best without much root damage. You will also be
hauling out a lot of soil which will protect the roots during the transplanting.
Lay it onto a large piece of plastic and pull to its new spot.
Have prepared a hole 6" deeper and around than your root ball. Loosen the soil
and add peat moss, compost or leaf mold. This will enrich the soil. Make sure it
has good drainage and is in nearly full sun for best bloom. Carefully lower the
plant into the hole and maintain the same soil line as before. Fill in with good
soil and water in slowly and deeply. Do not press the soil down as this shuts off
needed oxygen.
If the new area is at all breezy, you may need to stake it gently for just a
month to hold it until the roots grow into the new bed. Keep all spent blossoms
and poor leaves removed and discarded away from the bush.
Insects:
Q. Help! I have something eating my rose bush leaves. What do I do, quick?
A. Start your insect prevention program before any insects arrive. Identify the
insect culprit. There are different treatments for many of them.
Japanese Beetles are common. Pick off the adults and use insecticide to kill
off young in soil.
Aphids are also very common. Knock them off with a water stream and/or use an
insecticide.
Spittle bug, seen as white froth on new growth, can be dispatched with a stream
of water.
Sawfly. Rolls a leaf around eggs. Remove the leaf and destroy.
Leafhopper. A yellow-green insect that should be sprayed with insecticide.
Spider Mite, seen as tiny reddish specks under leaves. Try an intense water stream
and/or a miticide.
Leaf Cutter Bee, cuts circles into edge of leaves. A beneficial insect, so ignore
their minor damage.
Lady Bugs are a desired insect. The young have voracious appetites for aphids.
Always use insecticides very carefully, follow label directions. Too much here
is not a good thing. Safer's also makes environmentally safe sprays which work to
a less degree, but may give them a try. Combination insecticide-fungicides are available,
however don't use unless you have both problems.
Always make certain your roses are well watered before applying any chemical.
It lessens leaf burn. Spray in the early AM before the sunlight hits the foliage
and stems. But, do not apply on a shady, cool day, as the moisture will sit there
and may lead to black spot or rust fungi.
With help from: about.com
Member Eva writes~
I bought a little indoor miniature rose bush in October. How can I make them flourish?
Do I need to repot, or prune? How do I fertilize them? The buds are drooping on
me. What does it mean? I have watered it twice already in 1.5 weeks.
A. Watch the watering and check the soil mix. They like a full, rich organic
mix. It may be fine now until repotting which I want you to do in the spring.
Inside, roses are not well-suited. They love it outdoors, so it will prove a
bit tricky to make them happy. A planter box right outside the window works so much
better with lots of good full sunlight.
Flowers are about through now. The wilting of them signals to me that they went
through a change of environment, probably to a spot where the humidity is much lower.
In heated spaces during the winter, roses do very poorly. It is best to allow them
to rest, go dormant, and then shoot out tiny foliage next spring followed by the
blooms as one would expect. Rarely can you get a rose bush to bloom throughout the
winter unless you have a greenhouse or a large strong plant light, or GroLux lamp
system as I use with my African violets.
I would not repot them now. This is best in the spring for roses. But prune,
yes! Go through and use sharp clean cutters and remove any spindly yellowed or brown
wood. Leave only the good strong fresh branches. That will take the energy to the
good stems and allow more light for them without that garbage.
Cut to a leaf, right above it, and pick ones which have the five parts to a leaf.
They are stronger and will sprout out a good stem. Do not be afraid to cut away,
as it will help the plant next year.
Feeding should be dropped to about nothing right now, unless you see buds breaking
and the stems are forming new leaves. Then a 1/2 dilution once a month would be
fine. Otherwise, hold back on food and water to force it into dormancy, a rest period
until spring.
Mildew:
Eva writes~
I have an indoor miniature red rose bush. I noticed today that there is white powder-like
stuff around some of the leaves, and around one of the rose buds. What can this
mean? What should I do?
A. You have powdery mildew. Roses indoors and out are prime candidates for this
very common attack. It is a fungus which produces spores of white. You can blow
on it or rub and it smears like a fresh powder. nasty stuff. It will not kill your
plant but will mar the foliage and cause the buds to brown and die before opening.
It is extremely common, especially in areas where air circulation is poor. Here
in the City, due to our plentiful fog, roses always get it, usually in the fall
as the vigor decreases and the mildew sets in.
There is a product you can buy for mildew. 'Mildex' is very popular. Go to your
local nursery or garden supply company and look at fungicides for roses. It is a
bestseller due to the wide problem. In case you cannot locate it, ask a qualified
helper where it is. Ortho makes a brand, too.
A few suggestions and warnings:
Please follow the label directions carefully and exactly.
Do not spray near kids or pets. Take the plant outside if possible and bring
inside when done.
Spray the tops and bottoms of all leaves, stems and flowers.
Do not set the plant back into direct light until totally dry, or you risk leaf
burn.
Do not spray on a cool, dark day. The liquid needs to evaporate off in warmth.
Wash your hands with warm soapy water after applying.
Do not place plant where kids or pets could eat or chew the leaves.
Respray every 10 days to 2 weeks to kill off all spores. It is not a one shot
deal. Followup is very important for control.
Members Dan and Carol write~
Please tell me how to make a New Dawn rose bush continue to bloom. This is the second
year for my New Dawn roses. This Spring they bloomed nicely, one time and never
did anything else this season. I do have lots of green growth. I'm in Zone 5 planting,
Upper New York State.
A. From what I have read, you must allow more time. Many growers feel it is the
easiest rose to grow. It reaches up to 20' in any direction, but some hybrids bloom
well only after three years in the garden bed, in June, and rest until September.
Pruning out the overly large vigorous canes assists flower production. It really
needs full sun, though some report having it in partial shade with success.
Here is some info on New Dawn Roses:
Also known as: 'Climbing Dr. W. Van Fleet', 'The New Dawn'
Introduced: 1930, Dreer, USA
Class: Rambler
Zones: 4b-10
Parentage: Sport of 'Dr. W. Van Fleet'
Color & Form: Cream Pink, Double
Size:15 to 20 feet (10-15' in U.K.)
Fragrance: Good
Soft flowers which appear throughout the season. Excellent health and vigor. Tolerates
poor soil conditions. Highly recommended.
'New Dawn' is truly an excellent climber for large spaces. It has many strengths
and few weaknesses. Fully double flowers are produced in large masses in spring,
with smaller flushes following throughout the summer; a nice fall bloom will provide
the gardener with warm memories during the cold nights of winter. Bloom color is
a creamy pink, fading to white during hot summer days. Foliage is medium green and
healthy, with excellent disease resistance. It has an ability to prosper in poor
growing conditions. 'New Dawn' tolerates poor soil, partial shade, and is both heat
and cold tolerant. Do take care, however, as 'New Dawn' is a 'big' climber; will
cover large spaces, so prepare for that when you plant.
It is fitting that this rose is perennially among the best-selling of roses.
It is also fitting that it should be the plant to receive the first plant patent
granted by the US patent office in 1930, and to receive the last nomination as World's
Favorite Rose in this millennium, for it is a truly exceptional rose.
New Dawn starts bearing flowers when the frosts cease and continues to bear them
at least until the frosts start again. The flowers have a unique high-centered form
and come in the most delicate shade of pink. Not strongly fragrant, they are sweetly
so.
The soft pink is one that can be used almost anywhere in the landscape, and the
almost-evergreen foliage means the rose looks handsome at least three seasons a
year. The flowers may be sweet, tender, and delicate, but the plant is big, strong,
vigorous, and free of pests or disease. I've seen New Dawn produce a plant 20 feet
in every direction in a single year. Because of its beauty and ease of culture it's
an especially gratifying rose to grow as a beginner.
Assistance from: www.rosefile.com and
www.timelessroses.com
Rose Petals:
Q. What can be done with rose petals?
A. Here are some websites with ideas for you:
Freeze-Dried Petals
Information
General Information Quality freeze-dried Rose Petals do not come easily. This is
why they are relatively hard to find in the general marketplace.
www.weddingpetals.com/aboutrosepetals.htm
Rose Petals Everywhere! Real Dry Rose
Petals that Look Fresh
Decorative, dried rose petals are perfect for flower girls because they don't stain
woodwork and carpets like fresh rose petals do.
www.lookalive.com/faq.htm
Everything's Coming Up
Roses
You can also mix the dried petals with dried lavender flowers and ... bag and
scent your bath. Do not use essential oils.
Old Fashioned Rose Potpourri Recipe:
www.seedsofknowledge.com/roses2.html
Rose Petals for Peace
I remove the dried rose potpourri petals which sit in a glass container andreplace
them with a new batch. I am asking that you do the same ritual.
www.rosepetalsforpeace.com/
Rose Beads Made from Miniature Roses, Rosary
kits, Jewelry
What they are and what you can do with them. Medium-size Miniature Roses made for
many years from the rose petals of miniature roses.
www.rosebeads.com
Rose Petals Everywhere! Real Dry Rose Petals that Look Fresh
An elegant and lavish wedding like movie stars and royalty and do it on your budget!
Rose Petals Everywhere! TM are real rose petals which have been freeze.
www.lookalive.com/rosepetals.htm
Making Rose Petal Beads
http://www.mindspring.com/~maclain/southdowns/phoenix/Articles/rosebeads.html
Rose Beads
www.markw.com/rosebeads.htm
Winter Protection:
Q. I have miniature climbing roses that are supposed to be subzero hardy. I live
in New York and am worried about the winter months. Do I need to protect them, and
if so how?
A. Treat miniature roses just like regular roses for winter protection. However,
only mound six to eight (6" to 8") inches of soil through the center of the plant.
Eight to ten (8" to 10") inches of oak leaves with evergreen boughs on top can also
be used successfully. Remove winter protection in the spring when the ground has
thawed and new buds start emerging.
Protecting roses for the winter is not a scientific process. There are as many
different measures as there are types of roses. The whole practice of winter protection
is not to prevent the cold from reaching the plants, but to keep them cold. More
rose injury occurs due to freezing and thawing and heaving action throughout the
winter than severe cold temperatures. One of the best protection methods is to cut
canes (stems) back to three (3) feet high around Thanksgiving. The soil should be
frozen; plants need to be in a dormant state before protection is applied. Rake
up and collect fallen leaves. Remove old mulch and compost or dispose. Spray plants
one final time with a rose fungicide or lime sulfur spray, making sure to spray
all canes and the base of the plant. Tie canes with old nylon stockings or soft
twine to prevent canes from whipping in the wind during the winter. Plants shorter
than two and a half (2 1/2) feet should not be cut. Water plants thoroughly unless
soil is moist.
The vegetable garden is a good location; the soil can then be returned to the
garden in the spring. Wood or bark chips can also be used as well as old sawdust.
Top the chips and sawdust with evergreen boughs to hold in place. However, soil
provides the best protection. Oak leaves can also be used as they are the only leaves
that tend not to mat down. Top with evergreen boughs to hold in place. Continued
on next page Rose cones can be used. Like regular winter protection, their purpose
is to keep the plant cold and limit freezing and thawing. Rose canes should be cut
to fit comfortably beneath the cones. Four to six inches of soil is still added
down the center of the plant. Place a brick or two on top of the cone to anchor
it in place. Finally, poke a couple of holes in the cone at the top to promote ventilation.
Three (3) nail holes should be sufficient size. Remove winter protection in the
spring when the ground has thawed and new buds emerge.
Credit: University of Illinois, College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental
Sciences, Cooperative Extension Service
Leaf Mold:
Gary, I have a problem with mold on the leaves of some of my roses. I cannot
seem to totally get rid of it. I am afraid that it will infect my other plants.
My roses get sun 3/4's of the day.
A. That certainly is enough sun which also dries the rose foliage so that mold,
bacteria, fungi and mildew do not have the ideal conditions to flourish.
Humidity is also involved. If it is high [as in muggy], the amount of water in
the air is very high close to the foliage, almost to saturation. This definitely
will encourage mold.
I do not know if this mild is white, black or greenish. That would clue me in
more as to what exactly you have. If it is black, I suspect black spot, a fungus.
If it is powdery white, then it probably is mildew.
I want you to pick off two leaves with good examples of this problem, bag them
securely in a clear plastic bad, and take to your best garden center or nursery
or to a local Ag department. Have a knowledgeable person inspect and I am certain
it will be easily identified. Then, apply the appropriate spray according to the
label's directions, in the AM for four weeks.
Keeping Cut Roses Fresh:
Q. When I receive a bouquet of roses, they seem to last only a couple days. What
am I doing wrong?
A. Try these ideas for keeping cut roses fresh:
Your roses have traveled a long distance, and will need some special care to
help them look their best. Fill your favorite vase 3/4 of the way with lukewarm
water and contents of a floral preservative package. Remove your bouquet from the
box by cutting the band securing it.
Strip the rose stem of any foliage that will be underwater. This will help prevent
your roses from wilting. Remove water tubes from ends of the stems. With a sharp
knife or cutting shears, cut at least 1" off the bottom of each stem underwater.
Place your roses in vase immediately. Carefully pluck off one or two outer "guard
petals" of your roses if they have become bruised during shipping.
You should recut stems every few days, and keep vase filled with fresh water.
Displaying your farm-direct roses out of direct sunlight and drafts will prolong
the life of your bouquet.
Courtesy 1-800-Flowers
Traci, Florida~ I just bought a beautiful Chrysler Imperial rose plant. I will
be moving soon and don't want to plant it in the ground so I can take it with me
when I leave. It is in a 1 gallon pot right now. How long will it be OK in that
pot? Can I replant it in another pot? If so, how large should that pot be? Also,
what can I do about yellow leaves and white spots on the leaves? Also, how much
sun does it need daily?
A. Chrysler Imperial [Early Hybrid tea, hardy Zones 5-9] has stayed around because
of its catchy, classy name. It deserved its selection as an All-America rose in
1952-3, after which is became the red rose to beat, and beaten it was...soundly,
by Precious Platinum, Toro, and Olympiad, to name only three. I admit that Chrysler
Imperial is sumptuously fragrant, but on the downside, there is powdery mildew [your
white spots] on already-dull foliage, lack of vigor, and short stems.
Here is a good page on your rose:
http://www.helpmefind.com/sites/rrr/pl.php?n=1175
If you are moving within 30-40 days, I recommend that you leave the bush in its
container. If it will be a longer time, pot up to a 2 gallon container and water
in well, keeping it in a bright, sunny location with at least 6 hours light and
gentle breezes.
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can appear on many types of trees
and plants. While it will not necessarily kill outright, the plant or tree will
become more susceptible to other problems and its appearance and the amount of flowers
and fruit it produces will decline. It can occur in any geographic region, but is
most prevalent in the arid regions of western North America. If left untreated,
it will persist year after year.
With Powdery mildew infestation, the plant gives the appearance of having been
dusted with flour or talcum powder. It is most likely to attack in the spring and
the fall when the weather is cool and the humidity is high. Spores are carried by
the wind and rain to new plant hosts.
To lessen the chance of the disease occurring, plant in non-shaded areas. Space
plants providing enough aeration and growing room. Prune and thin out branches and
monitor for any signs of infection. Collect infected leaves and remove. Provide
enough moisture, always watering in the morning or late afternoon.
Powdery mildew may be treated with baking soda spray, or commercially produced
fungicides. These products may include sulfur, fenarimol, dinocap, triadimifon or
benomyl. Refer to the instructions on the package to determine method and timing
of application. Weather conditions such as temperature and humidity are important
factors when determining when to apply fungicides.
http://www.treehelp.com/trees/rose/rose-diseases-powdery-mildew.html
The yellow leaves are related to the mildew attack. Also, be sure you are feeding
this plant. Give it a rose fertilizer and follow the label directions. Roses are
heavy feeders and drinkers, and the nitrogen will give the bush greener foliage
while it recovers.
Rhonda writes~ I have recently moved to a house with rose bushes. But they have
a sticky residue on them and also I have noticed tiny green bugs covering them.
I've never had rose bushes before, but I suspect these are aphids, maybe? Can you
give me an idea what kind of insecticide or treatment I should purchase for these
bushes? The roses smell heavenly, and are quite pretty, except for a brown edge
to most of the roses.
A. You have inherited a buggy situation but not one out of total control. Aphids
sound like the problem. They feed on plants by sucking plant sap from the leaves,
twigs or stems. When abundant, aphids remove large quantities of sap, reducing plant
growth and vigor. Most aphids excrete large quantities of a sweet, sticky substance
called honeydew. Sooty mold fungus may grow on the honeydew, producing a gray, unattractive
covering of the leaves. The mold is not damaging to the bushes except when it covers
leaves and temporarily reduces photosynthesis.
Rid the bushes of the bugs and the rest will be resolved. But, you will have
to keep a wary eye on them all season long. Disyston is a systemic insecticide sold
in granular form, or as a plant food mixture that can be mixed with soil and picked
up by plant roots. Merit [imidacloprid] is a systemic insecticide used in soil injections
by commercial pesticide applicators.
Most systemic insecticides are quite toxic to people. Therefore, use with extra
caution. Some plants may be injured by certain systemic insecticides. Carefully
read and follow all label directions. None of the systemic insecticides available
to homeowners can be legally used on food crops.
Contact insecticides that do not move systemically in plants are useful for aphid
control where the insects are exposed on the plants. Contact insecticides for aphid
control include Malathion, Diazinon and Durban. Plant coverage must be thorough
when using contact insecticides. Diazinon is extremely hazardous to birds, so use
with extra caution on plants frequented by birds for nesting or feeding.
On tolerant plants, insecticidal soaps or certain dilute dishwashing detergents
(1 to 2 percent concentration) can provide aphid control. Good plant coverage is
important when using soaps or detergents because these products may injure plants.
Always test soap or detergent on a small area of the plant.
Q. My roses were doing so well until we got some cool, overcast and wet weather!
Now, I see red circles on the tops and bottoms of very healthy green leaves. What
should I do? I want them to bloom this summer after all the work I have done. Help,
please.
A. Rust is a fungal disease that causes red-orange spots on the undersides of
leaves and yellow blotches on the top. This airborne disease spreads quickly, so
remove all infected leaves from the plant and the ground around the plant.
Good sanitation is the best cure. You can also spray the plant with a fungicide
such as 'Rose Defense'.
Jean writes~
I need to know what to feed my roses with. I buy products at the store, but they
don't seem to work. I have climbing roses that don't climb...they grow straight,
and flower for a few weeks and the turn yellow and get spots. I try not to water
them a lot, I need to know about using home remedies!
A. I cannot recommend any home remedies since I do not know what they are for.
Are you buying a specific rose fertilizer? If you follow the directions, you should
have good healthy green foliage and plentiful flowers, if the bushes are well-watered
during the summer, the soil contains good organic material, the bushes have an inch
mulch around them and they get at least half day full sunlight.
As for the spots, it is probable you have a common fungus as rust or black spot.
There is no good remedy for these attacks except a fungicide from a nursery.
TM writes~ My roses have holes inside the stems, what kind of insect does this?
What is the natural product to use to get rid of them?
A. Rose cane borers! You can hopefully cut them all out by cutting below the
bulge in the stem where the borer was. Cane borers in pruned canes are generally
not a problem to be concerned about. We may blame a borer for killing a cane, but
more likely the cane was already dead or weak, and thus attractive to the nesting
bee or wasp. If a few canes do become damaged, the nests are shallow, and the cane
can be repruned to a lower bud.
If you had a serious infestation last season (you are just now noticing all the
holes), you probably had an abundant supply of aphids the past couple of seasons.
You can seal the cane ends, but vow to monitor the aphid population more carefully.
Try using organic Safer's Insecticidal Soap as recommended on the label, repeat
as called for to rid yourself of the aphids since they will continue to find your
roses by flying from nearby bushes.
It has been found that an alternative control is to seal pruned cane ends with
Elmer's glue or a Nu-Bark pruning stick in order to control the aphid population.
The wasps will then search for other nesting sites with a reliable source of food.
The Official Website for the Seattle Rose Society:
http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/index.html
Q. My roses have little green aphids I think. They are all along the stems. What
do I do?
A. These tiny, soft-bodied bugs are less than 1/10" across. The color varies,
depending upon what they are eating. Green stems of roses for instance will exhibit
green aphids.
Deterrents:
Plant alliums such as garlic and chives, as well as anise, coriander, nasturtiums,
and petunias as companion plants. They can act as deterrents.
Use yellow sticky traps or yellow dishes containing soapy water to trap aphids.
Spray stems, leaves, entire bushes with a water from your garden hose. This will
knock them off [in addition to red spider mites] but not kill them.
Spray plants with soap sprays [try Safer's Insecticidal Soap Spray] or mint tea.
Spray with chemical insecticides as raid House and Garden. Repeat as directed
on the label.
Lacewings will eat up to 100 aphids per day, and ladybugs also eat large quantities
of aphids. You can purchase boxes of them.
Margaret writes~
I live in Vermont, USA and my first year with climbing roses. Do I bend them over
and mulch, or cut them down and mulch?
A. It is better to prune the rose canes rather than bend them over once fall
has set in, temperatures have dropped and all the leaves have fallen. Depending
upon how tall and gangly the vines have become, this task could be mild to severe.
Usually it is preferred to have the branches no taller than 3 feet above the soil
line, even shorter. Remove weak interior branches and shape the bush to an upright
oval. Cut back stems to good, thick nodes. This will ensure a healthy, more vigorous
sprout come spring. Make sure any diseased foliage is removed, bagged and discarded.
Do not mulch with dead damaged leaves of any kind, but only fresh, disease-free
leaves. Avoid oak leaves as they are quite acidic. Mulches can range from one inch
to half a foot.
Lou writes~
Dear Sir, would you please tell me what is a good HOME remedy for rust fungi in
roses? I would appreciate any help... someone suggested white vinegar diluted in
water...OK?
A. Rust causes rust-colored spots on leaf undersides and is most common during
periods of warm days and cool nights. Remove winter prunings and spray dormant oil
combined with lime sulfur, as for black spot. Sulfur-based fungicides have long
been the organic gardener's weapon of choice for battling fungal diseases. They
provide reasonable control but show residues on the leaves and petals and cannot
be used when temperatures exceed 90F. Sulfur sprays are difficult to apply as they
may clog sprayer. You may try the vinegar water spray, but there is no recommendation.
Whole Neem oil is a promising new product. Unlike Neem oil extracts used to control
insects, whole Neem oil controls black spot, powdery mildew, and rust as well as
many insects and mites. It's also less expensive than Neem oil extracts, comes from
the tropical Neem tree, Azadirachta indica. It is cleaned but is not refined and
does not mix very well with water, therefore only mix whole Neem oil into water
that is warm. It is different from Neem oil extracts, which have been available
for a few years, and is currently available from only one company. The product name
is Rose Defense and it is available from the Green Light Co. (Box 17985, San Antonio,
TX, 210-494-3481). Apply 2 tablespoons per gallon water.
http://doityourself.com/flowers/growingrosesthenaturalway.htm
Cindy writes~ I recently moved into a home here in Las Cruces, NM, that has the
entire East-facing side of the house covered in huge old rose bushes. Unfortunately
they are more tall than wide, some canes reaching the eaves of the house! This spring
they bloomed nicely but are now looking rather spindly. As a former Midwesterner
I used to know how to take care of roses, but know that here in the arid SW the
climate and care of roses seems to be completely different. How should I prune them;
how far back; what time of year should they be pruned; what should I feed them;
how often; with what? Given the low amount of rainfall here (only 8-12" per year)
they are watered with a sprinkler system. How often and how much should they be
watered a week?
A. This area is not known in my expertise so I am citing portions of two articles
to assist you. One of the most important aspects of rose care in the desert is watering.
Roses need frequent irrigation during hot weather. In the spring, 2-3 waterings
weekly are required when daytime highs are in the 80's and lower 90's. As temperatures
approach 95 F. increase watering to 3-4 times weekly, making sure the water penetrates
to a depth of 2-3'. This deep watering not only stimulates deep rooting of your
roses, but also keeps harmful salts washed down below the root system. To help conserve
moisture and keep rose roots cooler, cover the soil with an organic mulch, 3-4"
thick. Straw, compost, chipped bark, ground western cedar, and pine needles all
work well. Desert roses need heavy amounts of plant nutrients to stay healthy and
happy, responding to regular applications of nitrogen and phosphorous. Magnesium
in the form of Epsom salts promote basal shoot development and overall health. The
form nutrients take can vary. Quick release, slow release and organic forms all
have their place but slow release forms promote a constant but mild level of nutrients.
This avoids the ‘feast or famine' condition that can arise when using standard granular
fertilizers. Slow release fertilizers in the desert only last half the time indicated
on the package label. So a 3 month timed-release product will last just 6 weeks.
If you use a standard granular fertilizer or rose food, make applications of these
every 4 weeks up to June. Then cut the amount per application in half, from June
through August, to allow roses to rest during the heat of Summer. Products like
Peters, Schultz, and Miracle-Gro can be applied to bolster the plants nutrient levels
as needed through the season. In addition, roses may require periodic applications
of iron. If new leaves have yellowed, apply ‘chelated' iron to the soil. Be on the
look out for rose pests as aphids, mites and cane borers. Since the first year determines
the future of the rose, begin with good organic planting soil. Be sure to avoid
adding too many supplements and spraying with chemicals. A mix of good mulch with
your soil, or a high quality planting soil, is best. If the grower specializes in
old roses and offers guidelines, follow the instructions. Even organic pesticides
and soaps may not agree with these independent plants. Desert roses do not appreciate
too much attention and may be killed by kindness, especially during their first
year. In the Southwest, plant in December and January to avoid the early heat waves.
The care and plant characteristics vary so check the information on specific plants
you like. Some bloom on old wood and some bloom on new wood, which determines whether
you can prune your plants and when.
John Begeman, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, the University of Arizona,
March 28, 2004 and Roses for the Desert by Penny J. Leisch.
Dawn writes~
I'm not really sure what the bugs are on my rose bush but they look like a very
small green grasshoppers. They are doing a job on the leaves. Do you have a recipe
available for this problem? I have used your recipe for aphid control. Results...aphids
gone; green things feeding.
A. They are probably leafhoppers. The most common found on roses are the white
apple leafhopper
(Typhlocyba pomaria) and the rose leafhopper (Edwardsiana rosae).
Both species are similar, except for small black spots on the nymph of the rose
leafhopper. Both are white, about 1/8" long, and found on roses, apples, blackberries
and other related plants. They appear long and slim, with wings folded tight along
the sides of the body, like a tent. When disturbed, they "jump" away, flying really.
They generally are found on the underside of leaves, and first noticed by stippling
on the top of the leaf similar to that of spider mites but larger. Control is usually
not necessary unless a severe infestation is present [more than one per leaf.] This
is more common around apple orchards that may serve as hosts. There is an egg parasite,
Anagrus epos Girault, that attacks leafhopper eggs, and predatory mirids
[plant bugs] also attack nymphs, but are not considered significant controls. Controlling
nearby host plants such as brambles is usually more effective. If chemical controls
are necessary, they are most effective during the nymph stage of the first generation
[mid-May to early June.] In apple-growing regions, leafhoppers have been developing
a resistance to organophosphate insecticides. Carbaryl [Sevin] may be effective,
but currently, the insecticide of choice is imidacloprid, a systemic chloro-nicotinyl
insecticide also effective against aphids, whiteflies, mealy bugs, scale and thrips
Or try Merit. Safer's Insecticidal Soap is good but far less effective, needing
weekly applications for a month.
http://www.bmi.net/roseguy/gblfhop.html
Brenda writes~
I have 2 rose bushes that are not doing well at all. I have chose to dig them up,
but would like to know when to replant new ones. I live in Jacksonville, FL.
A. Florida roses are grown in Florida specifically for Florida soil and climate.
These roses are very resistant to nematode damage and well suited to the sandy soils
of this state. The biggest mistake most Florida gardeners make is planting rose
bushes that are field grown in climates very different and budded on rootstocks
which are not productive and do not live long in Florida. Buy roses grown for Florida
gardens because Florida has a 12-month gardening climate, the rose is an evergreen
shrub that will grow and bloom for 5-20 years in the garden if cared for properly.
Planting is best done in November in southern Florida and in December or January
in northern Florida. They should be planted where they will receive a minimum of
6 hours of sunlight preferably where they can receive the morning sun because it
will dry the dew on the leaves and lessen the chance of black spot. Roses should
be planted in rich but well-drained soil. Since sand drains too quickly and does
not hold nutrients well it should be improved by adding amendments such as peat,
composted cow manure, and compost. Add as much as 4-6" of any or all of these amendments
to improve your soil. Roses are heavy feeders and a wide variety of fertilizer is
recommended to feed them. The secret to feeding Florida roses is to apply fertilizer
once a month. It is recommended that newly planted roses should not be fertilized
until new growth emerges, although 1/2 cup of Milorganite may be applied as a top
dressing on new plantings. Water your roses well once a week unless there is rain.
Water in the morning so that the leaves are not wet during the night as wet leaves
can host foliage diseases.
Hybrid Tea Roses Recommended for Florida:
Red -- Crimson Glory, Etoile de Holland,
Mirandy, Tropicana
Pink -- Charlotte, Armstrong, Dainty Bess
(single)
Yellow -- Eclipse, Golden Scepter, Kings
Ransom, Lady Elgin, Mrs. P.S. DuPont
White -- K.A. Victoria, White Knight
Bicolor -- Comtesse Vandal, Lucky Piece,
Pres. Herbert Hoover, Talisman
Floribunda Varieties Recommended for Florida
Red -- El Capitan, Floradora, Fusilier,
Red Pinocchio
Pink -- Fashion, Pink Chiffon, Pinocchio
Yellow -- Allgold, Gold Cup, Goldilocks
White -- Ivory, Fashion, Saratoga
Bicolor -- Circus, Rumba
When buying your rose bushes remember that you should buy your roses from a reputable
nursery to prevent disappointment and poor quality rose bushes; Florida container-grown
roses are the best buy because you can see the rose in flower when you buy it and
you can be fairly sure that the plant is healthy and vigorous; many rose bushes
have "All American Rose Selection" on their tags. This means that the rose has been
tested and has outperformed other varieties under an assortment of soils and climates
and will undoubtedly perform well in your garden.
Pearlene writes~
Do you know if there are any rose plants named Emily? I want to give a rose plant
to my granddaughter for her birthday and there must be one out there named Emily.
I live in Lincoln, CA. If you can point me in the right direction I'd surely appreciate
it.
A. The only rose closes what follows:
Old Garden Rose 'Lady Emily Peel' Cultivar information: 1862
Class: Bourbon Hybrid Perpetual Noisette
Hardiness:
USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 degrees C (0 degrees F)
USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 degrees C (5 degrees F)
USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 degrees C (10 degrees F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 degrees C (15 degrees F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 degrees C (20 degrees F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 degrees C (25 degrees F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 degrees C (30 degrees F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 degrees C (35 degrees F)
Bloom Color: White
Bloom Shape: Double
Flower Fragrance: Very Fragrant
Bloom Time: Late Spring/Early Summer, Blooms repeatedly
Patent Information: Non-patented
http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/52715/
Dawn writes~
Thank you for your excellent site, Gary! I have a question regarding roses. I read
the answers to the questions that were already asked, but I still have a couple
of questions. I live in Central WA where it gets quite cold in the winter. I have
20 roses and I've pruned them back a little already. I know I'm supposed to prepare
them for winter, although the first year I didn't and they seemed to do well, and
then the next winter I raked up bark around them and a number of canes were black
in the spring. Is it OK to use maple leaves for cover (that's all I have access
to) Also, do I wait until we no longer get warmer days (it is still 45-50F daytime)
Also, you mentioned to spray one last time with a fungicide. Do I wait till it's
all frozen or anytime now? I have lots to learn, and I thank you for your help.
A. Please spray with fungicide one last time before the cold weather and freezing
if you experience it. As to mulch, maple leaves are fine to use though oak give
the soil high acidity so should be avoided. Mulch improves the quality of life of
a rose in these ways: It prevents competing plants from taking root in the rose's
territory; It decreases water evaporation from the soil without decreasing absorption,
It decreases temperature swings in the soil, keeping it cool during the summer and
warm during the winter It keeps you from running into the rose with the weedeater
or lawn mower. It can help protect a rose against severe winter conditions If piled
high enough it can reduce moisture loss in canes of new transplants. All sorts of
materials are suitable for mulch. Some commonly used ones are pine needles, pine
bark, wood chips, chopped roots, coconut hulls, cocoa hulls, and peanut hulls. Sometimes
rocks and gravel are used as a mulch. This works to some extent, but it is less
effective in most of the categories, and it does not help feed the soil. Do not
use grass clippings or unrotted leaves. They will decompose quickly and while doing
so will eat up nitrogen and other nutrients. A good depth is 3". Less than 2" and
the beneficial effects dwindle rapidly. More than 3" and the plants start to treat
it as a kind of topsoil and mulch is not a very good topsoil. This is a bit less
of a problem with deeply rooted roses than it is for other cultivars. A west-coast
rose grower advocates piling mulch over most of the exposed canes of a new transplant,
then removing it when the rose leafs out. This limits desiccation, a major reason
for failure in new transplants. People in northern climates will sometimes pile
mulch 6-12" to protect frost-tender roses. This is usually preceded by pruning the
rose to a height that roughly matches the depth of mulch. In the spring as the tulips
blossom the mulch is pulled away from the rose. There are insulation blankets available
for this purpose. The head of a prominent garden in Quebec pulls the stems of roses
down to the ground instead of pruning them, then protects with a polyfoam blanket.
Where rose stems are pliable enough to do this, it can work well also.
http://www.rosefile.com/RosePages
C. writes~
What are the ingredients to making your own spray for black spot on roses?
A. Here are several ideas:
Garlic and Pepper Spray...protect your garden plants by brewing a batch as follows:
6 cloves of garlic
1 tablespoon dried hot pepper
1 minced onion
1 teaspoon pure soap (not detergent)
1 gallon hot water
Blend and let sit for 1-2 days. Strain and use as spray. Ground cayenne or red
hot pepper can also be sprinkled on the leaves of plants (apply when leaves are
slightly damp) to repel chewing insects or added to the planting hole with bone
meal or fertilizer to keep squirrels, chipmunks, dogs and other mammals away from
your gardens. Be sure to reapply after rain. Another version...liquefy 2 bulbs of
garlic and 2 hot peppers in a blender 1/2 to 2/3 full of water. Strain the solids
and add enough water to the garlic/pepper juice to make 1 gallon of concentrate.
Use 1/4 cup of concentrate per gallon of spray. To make garlic tea, simply omit
the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. Add two tablespoons of blackstrap molasses
for more control.
Baking Soda Fungicide...Black spot is a fungal disease that produces black spots
on the leaves of infected roses. In severe cases, the plant can be defoliated. Remedy...mix
3 tablespoons Baking Soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons horticultural oil and one gallon of
water. Spray the mix onto infected plants. Reapply as often as needed. Spray lightly
on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and
other fungal diseases. Avoid overusing or pouring on the soil. Potassium bicarbonate
is a good substitute for baking soda. Citrus oil and molasses can be used instead
of horticultural oil.
Potassium Bicarbonate Fungicide...mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon)
of potassium bicarbonate into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants
afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases.
Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda.
Vinegar Fungicide...mix 3 tablespoons of natural apple cider vinegar in one gallon
of water. Spray during the cool part of the day for black spot on roses and other
fungal diseases. Adding molasses at 1 tablespoon per gallon will again help.
Glenda writes~
My Mom used to make starts from other rose bushes. I cannot remember how she would
do it and she has since passed on. I have asked every one I know, and nobody knows
how. Any information you might get would be greatly appreciated.
A. Jar method: This is probably the easiest way to take cuttings: not much equipment
is needed, just a clear quart-size glass jar and some cuttings from your favorite
rose. A 2-liter plastic bottle with the top cut off will work well. Cut a piece
of rose stem about 6" long, remove the bottom set of leaves and stick the stem into
the ground 2" deep, and cover with a jar. Periodically water the soil around the
jar; otherwise the rose stem will dry out. It will take a couple of months for the
rose stem to take root and begin leafing out with its new growth. The best time
of year is spring or early fall. If you live in a mild climate, then winter and
summer can also be successful for rooting roses. Intense summer heat of 100F is
not conducive for taking cuttings, nor are 32F or below winters.
Baggie method: Fill 2" plastic pots with potting soil or medium, insert
the rose stem halfway inside the pot, then put the pots into a one-gallon plastic
zip-lock bag. You can get 4 2" pots into each gallon bag. Bags tend to fold over
and therefore prevent air from circulating, so the success rate of this method is
not very good. Misting method: Set up a misting bench. It can be an open-air bench
or one enclosed in a greenhouse, or even a small misting box. Rig it up with a manual
or an automatically timed mister-whatever your time, money, or expertise will allow.
Mist-a-Matic system is quite good whose major benefit is to control the misting
cycle according to weather conditions. Too much water promotes disease and wastes
water. Too little water causes leaves to wilt and failure to root. The Mist-a-Matic
distributes the correct amount of water. In hot weather, the unit will turn on more
frequently as the water evaporates. In cooler weather, the unit turns on less frequently.
Planting mediums: There are 2 planting mediums for successfully rooting rose cuttings.
One is a 50-50% blend of potting soil and perlite. This is a very light blend that
encourages the roots to grow. The second is to use 2" x 2" chunks of moistened floral
Oasis. Stick the rose stems into the Oasis and when the rose has become fully rooted,
as evidenced by the roots coming out the bottom, place the rose stem into a small
container with the chunk of Oasis still on the bottom of the stem and fill the container
full of potting soil, leaving the Oasis intact. (Do not remove the Oasis from the
rooted rose stem cutting because you will break the roots.)
Tips for Rooting Cuttings:
Use sharp cutters to prevent crushing the stem.
Rooting hormone is optional; it works with or without it.
Label your rose cuttings with their proper name.
It takes 4 to 8 weeks for the cutting to root, depending on the weather.
Keep the cuttings moist at all times, with good air circulation and sunlight.
Make slits in the bottom inch of the stem to encourage more rooting.
Reprinted and edited from the September 2000 issue of Rose Ecstasy, bulletin
of the Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society, Kitty Belendez Editor.
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