Seed Sowing Time

The first two weeks of March is a good time for seed sowing. If you start any earlier, I find that the seedlings get too straggly. If too late, you have delayed getting them into your garden beds of vegetables and flowers. You want to aim for good strong seedlings with a healthy root system to be ready when all danger of frost is over in your climate zone.

First, you will sow the seeds. Sprinkle lightly over a sterile mix of moistened fine vermiculite and perlite. Tap a creased white paper to see that the seeds are distributed evenly. Cover with plastic wrap or a pane of glass. Remove briefly if water droplets form.

Then you will need to thin them out, so that each plant has the best opportunity for light, water and food. Be sure not to fertilize them until they are about 3" tall and then with a 1/2 dilution, so as not to burn the tender roots.

Q. I want to start my very own seedlings inside for my garden instead of buying them. Can I do that? When do I plant them outside? Do I pick a day and plant them all at the same time? I am new at gardening and need help badly!

A. To determine the best time to start seeds indoors, first find your frost date [the approximate last spring frost in your area]. If you do not know it, call your local Cooperative Extension Service or Ag Department or even a weather department for local TV/radio news.

Count backward from that date the number of weeks indicated below to determine when to start your seeds indoors [note: these are approximate]:

12-14 weeks: onions, garlic, leeks, chives, pansies, impatiens, and coleus [long-developing plants]

8-12 weeks: peppers, lettuce, cole crops (brassicas, as cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts), petunias, snapdragons, alyssum and other hardy annuals [meaning they can take a little cool temperature, but certainly not a frost!]

6-8 weeks: eggplant and tomatoes [Mediterranean vegetables]

4-6 weeks: zinnias, cockscombs, marigolds and other tender annuals [meaning that they do not like cool temperatures at all]

2-4 weeks: cucumbers, melons, okra, pumpkins, squash [fast-growing vegetables]

Joan writes~ I live in South Dakota and would like to know when to start my seeds for the spring planting. I will start flowers and greens like cucumbers and squash. I hope you can help me.

A. The best way to find out is to confirm your frost date by calling your local Ag Department or Cooperative Extension, or even your local weather station.

Then, allow time going back from that date to determine just how many days you will need inside for the seeds to germinate and reach a good healthy size but not so long that they are old and straggly from lack of light.

There are many reasons why it is smart to start seeds indoors:

Many plants have long growing seasons and they won't flower or fruit unless they get a head start inside. Even if plants don't need to be started indoors, they'll grow larger and bloom longer if started early. Plants with fine seeds are protected them from harsh weather. You have a lot more control over weeds, insects, and disease. Of course, you can always buy plants in the spring from a nursery that started them indoors.

Seed Selection and Preparation:

Before planting, check to see if your type of seed needs any special handling. Some seeds sprout easier if you soak them before planting. Don't soak them too long, however, because some seeds can become waterlogged and will decay. Some seeds with hard outer shells will sprout faster if their shell is slightly broken. Use a knife, file or sandpaper to break the surface gently, without breaking the plant embryo inside. A few annuals that must be started indoors include begonia, coleus, geranium, impatiens, some marigolds, petunia, pansy and verbena. Some vegetables that need longer growing seasons in order to produce include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, peppers, and tomatoes. Start seeds about six to eight weeks before you expect to take them outside.

Containers and Soil:

When starting seeds inside, it's important to have either a good, sunny window with a southern exposure or some cool-white fluorescent bulbs. Plastic or wooden nursery flats will hold the most amount of seeds, but you can also use any kind of pot, foil pan, Styrofoam or plastic cups, or milk cartons. Just make sure to punch holes in the bottoms for drainage. There are also special seed starters that consist of pot and soil all in one.

If your container has held plants before, wash them thoroughly and let them dry in the sun to remove any fungi from previous plants. If your container is made of peat or any absorbent material, you should soak it thoroughly before planting seeds so it won't pull moisture out of the soil later. Using a commercial potting soil is your best bet, but you can also use your own mixture. One such mixture is one part good top soil, one part peat moss, and one part clean sand. You can also add vermiculite which will help keep the soil loose for the new roots. Don't use garden soil because it can contain fungi and can cause your plants to rot.

Planting Seeds:

Fill your containers to within 1/2" from the top of your container with your potting soil. Then level the surface with some type of flat board. You can spread the seeds out evenly, or place them in the rows. Then press the seeds into the soil with a flat board. Plant twice as many seeds as the number of plants you want because some of the seeds will not germinate, and some will be lost in transplanting. Cover the seeds with soil, they should be buried to a depth of about four times their own diameter. Tiny seeds will just need to be pressed into the soil lightly. Check your seed package for specific planting directions. If your soil wasn't premoistened, set the container in water and let it draw it up water from the bottom. This method waters them a lot more evenly than top watering, and doesn't stir the seeds.

Mark each container so you don't forget what it is. Next, place your trays or pots in clear plastic bags or cover them with plastic or glass. This will keep the humidity high so less watering is needed. Keep the containers in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.

Germination:

Some seeds will require more light to germinate, and then you don't want to cover them. Check for specific instructions on the seed package. Check the containers every couple of days to make sure it isn't drying out. It'll take about a week for the seedlings to emerge from their shells and poke through the surface. Then you should uncover them and expose them to full sun or a grow light.

Keep the seedlings moist, but water them carefully so you don't drown or disrupt them. Watering from the bottom works best, however a fine mist sprayer works well too.

Acclimating and Transplanting Seedlings:

Once the plants have grown two full sets of leaves, transplant them to individual pots to give them more room to grow and develop roots. If your plants already have individual containers you won't need to transplant them. Handle plants carefully when transplanting, and grab them by the leaves, not by the stem. Some plants benefit from being pinched back. This helps them to be more bushy and colorful. This can also be used if your plants are getting too tall and you're not ready to plant them outdoors yet.

When it's warm enough to plant outside, set the plants outside for a few hours a day for a week and increase the amount of time each day. This will get them used to being outside. When you're ready to transplant, water the plants and the ground where they'll be planted. It's best to plant on a cloudy day so the heat of the sun won't cause wilting. Water your new transplants once a day for about a week until they are well established. If the plants start to wilt, cover them or give them shade until they revive.

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Rosalie writes~
When should I start my flower and vegetable seeds indoors? Is February too late?

To determine when to start seeds indoors, find the date that you expect to experience the last spring frost in your area. If you don't know this date, check with your local agricultural extension service.

Count backward from that date the number of weeks indicated below to determine when to start your seeds indoors. These weeks are approximate. Sow the seed according to the package directions and keep evenly moist, in low light until sprouted, and well-watered but not soggy, or you may get damping off:

12-14 weeks: onions, leeks, chives, pansies, impatiens, and coleus.

8-12 weeks: peppers, lettuce, cole crops (brassicas), petunias, snapdragons, alyssum and other hardy annuals.

6-8 weeks: eggplant and tomatoes.

5-6 weeks: zinnias, cockscombs, marigolds and other tender annuals [you do not want them to die from a late cold snap in the garden.]

2-4 weeks: cucumbers, melons, okra, pumpkins, squash.

Georgene writes~
The weather has warmed up North here so what should I keep in mind when planting my seeds?

A. First, spade your garden beds to loosen the soil. Add compost or dehydrated manure and rake smooth. Make certain that the soil is well-drained, loose, free of stones, not hard and compacted. This allows for easy water flow and aeration for the root systems.

Using a hoe, create a shallow trench. Stretch a string across it to mark straight rows. Follow seed packet instructions for proper sowing. Scatter seeds over the surface and cover them lightly with soil. Most seeds only need to be buried 1/4-1/2".

Water immediately, using a fine mist to keep seeds in place. Keep the seedbed slightly moist until the seeds germinate. Then, water only when the soil dries out. Plant both flowers and vegetables for early season color and crop.

Follow the instructions for proper spacing and culture. Thin seedlings of root vegetables to allow full root growth. Thin leafy greens for closer plantings to help keep soil moist and choke out weeds. Set up supports as string trellises for training flowering vines. Sweet Peas are beautiful done in this fashion.

Assistance from Burpee Seed Co.