Hot Mulled Cider

6 to 8 cups apple cider
1/4 cup packed brown sugar, or to taste
1 or 2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks
8 or 10 whole cloves, or to taste
8 or 10 whole allspice, or to taste
Zest of 1 lemon and/or 1 orange, cut into julienne or slices

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring just to the boiling point, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer to blend the flavors, about 10 minutes. Strain and serve.

Serves 6 to 8.